Suspect a form problem; Bareshafts always indicate weak spine

[bowslinger]

I am struggling to find a properly spined arrow using the bareshaft technique.  My bow setup is as follows:

Bear Takedown Supreme, 55# (B riser with #3) limbs; 16-strand D-97 flemish twist string; no silencers for now.  I shoot split-finger with a cordovan tab.
Has bear rug rest and original leather strike plate.  Bow is a 2012 model I believe.  

I have bareshafted the following arrows, all 30 inches long from end of shaft to valley of nock:
2016 with 125-grain field point
2018 with 125, 145, 175-grain field points
2117 with 125, 145, 175-grain field point
2216 with 125-grain field point
I have had some luck grouping bare and fletched shaft 2219s with 175-grain tip.

I have shot two wood arrows fletched that fly very well.  Douglas fir 60-65# with 145 glue on tip, and 65-70# 160 grain glue on tip.  They group very well.

While larger diameter woodies indicate maybe building out strike plate may help with aluminum arrows,  I am betting it is a form problem.

What are the most likely problems with always indicating week spine?

I have not run into this problem with other recurves or with my Pronghorn Longbow.  Stumped!

[flinginarrows]

This will not help you, but I feel your pain. Spent two days bare shafting and couldn't get rid of bare shafts hitting left of fletched arrows (I'm a lefty). Gave up and tried paper tuning almost perfect hole. I have slight nock high tear I can't get rid of. For now I will accept this and enjoy shooting.

[moebow]

Bare shafting for many "finger" shooters is problematic at best.  A bare shaft will react poorly to EVERY execution mistake/error you have or make from shot to shot.

FWIW, I SELDOM bare shaft for tuning purposes, I DO use bare shafts to check on my shot execution.  Regardless of the flight OR target impact orientation of the bare shaft, I generally do not make tuning adjustments based on that.  The reason I don't, for me, is that I know that the reason for bad arrow flight is 95% ME and only 5% tuning.

I just try to "fix" my shot execution.  Others can and do use bare shafting for tuning but it really leads to frustration if you aren't positive that your execution is the SAME every time.

You should be getting "reasonable" arrow flight with your 2016/18 and 2117 shafts.  Don't know about the 2216s.  My opinion is that you are getting a "false" weak from your form, not the equipment.  Also the fact that you don't seem to have a problem with your other bows makes me wonder if you are doing something differently with the Bear.

Arne

[bowslinger]

Thanks for the replies!  The Bear has a thinner grip than my other recurves, which actually feels a little more comfortable to me.  Trying to eliminate one possible form error at a time isn't leading me to a smoking gun, makig me think I am doing more than one thing wrong.  Time to get out a video camera and have someone tape me from different angles.

[Todd Cook]

Well, you said the woodies flew really good. That's what I shoot all the time.