Double Anchor guys and gals....

[Bud B.]

I have been a touch and go shooter for a while. I believe I get a cleaner release this way. My groups/accuracy was decent, but every now and then a wayward flyer would make me think "WHAT the heck?!?!"

The past few days I've been experimenting on a double anchor before release, with still maintaining the fluid touch&go release pull through. I bring the groove of my forefinger/thumb to the back of my jawbone with thumb tucked and middle finger to mouth corner. (three finger split) It could almost be a triple anchor - forefinger base knuckle goes to cheek bone under my eye, as well. If I hold, my up/down accuracy suffers but left/right is usually within one/two inches of center. I am not a gap shooter, but what I consider instinctive, by my definition. I don't like holding as my draw is part of my aiming process. It is not the swing draw as defined by Hill and Schulz, but is a close cousin.

Just wondering if anyone else anchors/shoots in this manner and what opinions/improvements can you share?

Ill never be a tournament winner nor do I strive to be. I do strive to have good groups with no flyers, as flyers equate to bad hits on game. I hate that and want to do all I can to avoid it.

Before using this technique, my flyers would almost always be to the left. I am a left handed shooter.

I have found that by getting the thumb groove to the jawbone it engages my back more and I believe my form has improved. I think I may have been collapsing my shoulders at times.

Just some random open thoughts. And looking for discussion.

[moebow]

Bud,

I think you cannot have too many reference points.

For me, the first point is bone on bone alignment, Then a repeatable head position (without this, the rest will be variable), Then multiple facial points for the string hand.

An example that I use (and have posted several times) is that 1/8th inch of deviation of the string hand (up/down, left/right, or back & forth) will produce an 8 inch error at a 20 yard target.  That is a diameter of 16 inches.  Depending on your definition of a "flier", how precise should you be?  Starting with bone on bone, then head position, then hand position on the head, how easy is it to deviate 1/8th inch?

For what it's worth, trying to maintain an aim during the draw also causes large deviations because you are trying to conform your drawing action to an unneeded and artificial outside input.  JUST my opinion, I know many do this, but I just don't see that it is beneficial.

Arne

[Blaino]

Bud, you might try to get a 3rd reference point by drawing the string to your eyebrow.   I noticed in pictures of the “greats” all of them make contact with the string on their eyebrow, some on the center of the brow and some on the side.  I guess facial structure would determine where contact is made.

[McDave]

I like the string to touch my eyebrow too.  Maintaining a certain pressure of the string on the bone under the eyebrow helps me to avoid creeping.  After using this for a short while, the string will come to contact your eyebrow on a certain natural spot, and any variation from that spot will be immediately evident to you.  Another advantage for me is that one of my anchors is nose to feather, which is my main draw check.  Before I started using string to eyebrow, I had a hard time determining when I was at full draw when I was shooting bare shafts, since there is no feather to contact my nose. String to eyebrow is as good a draw check as feather to nose, and works as well with a bare shaft as with fletched arrows, so now I guess you could say I have two draw checks.

[fnshtr]

Bud: I can't really add anything significant to what advice is given above as it is excellent... but you described my anchor almost perfectly in your initial post.

I went to a Rick Welch seminar and used to use the feather to nose anchor, but have gotten away from it due to having to fletch my own arrows. (Too lazy??) I have found the base thumb joint behind the jawbone and middle finger to corner of mouth... along with the "feel" otherwise, gives me a good solid anchor. My shooting has improved dramatically since incorporating that.

Unlike you, I cannot shoot quickly (touch anchor and immediately release)... as I do not really aim prior to anchoring. I do the rotational draw which aligns me GENERALLY with the target, then once anchored I fine tune my aim by focusing intently where I want the arrow to impact. As small a spot that I can possible imagine. Then I release by continuing to pull with my back muscles while at the same time relaxing my fingers.

When I do all of it right, the arrow goes where it should.

Good luck!

[Bud B.]

Can't do the eyebrow thing. I have to turn my head down too much to get contact. I have about 1/2-3/4 inch of gap between string and eyebrow. I think pointer finger knuckle to cheekbone is a method worth practicing as long as the other two are in place.

Moe, Since I don't gap, or secondary vision, any other way for me is less productive. Aiming as I draw is my accepted method. My flyers are off at time a foot or more. I attribute some of that to collapsing and allowing my bow shoulder to collapse inward and then the arrow goes left.

[Bud B.]

I took the Super Grizzly out this morning and shot three arrows from 15 paces with this new method I'm trying out. Here is a pic of the only arrows I've shot so far today. Still hitting a bit left on a few, but overall, if my shot from the blind or stand are like this at 15, I'm happy. Still trying to find repeatable performance through consistency.

I am curious for you eyebrow shooters, how tilted downward is your head? Maybe my noggin isn't the type where this'll work.


   

[Bud B.]

Originally posted by fnshtr:
Bud: I can't really add anything significant to what advice is given above as it is excellent... but you described my anchor almost perfectly in your initial post.

I went to a Rick Welch seminar and used to use the feather to nose anchor, but have gotten away from it due to having to fletch my own arrows. (Too lazy??) I have found the base thumb joint behind the jawbone and middle finger to corner of mouth... along with the "feel" otherwise, gives me a good solid anchor. My shooting has improved dramatically since incorporating that.

Unlike you, I cannot shoot quickly (touch anchor and immediately release)... as I do not really aim prior to anchoring. I do the rotational draw which aligns me GENERALLY with the target, then once anchored I fine tune my aim by focusing intently where I want the arrow to impact. As small a spot that I can possible imagine. Then I release by continuing to pull with my back muscles while at the same time relaxing my fingers.

When I do all of it right, the arrow goes where it should.

Good luck!

I went to the back yard and tried the anchoring and holding, but elevation suffered. Some low. Some high. I have a much better grouping and accuracy with the pull-thru release. Getting the thumb base to the jaw hinge is tricky with that kind of release.

[Jake Scott]

Bud...I could be totally wrong, and if I am hopefully Arne or Terry will correct me.

It has been my experience that you don't chose the anchor as much as the anchor chooses you.  If your anchor method is working, I would say stick with that.

I don't often give "form advice", more just comment on my own experiences.  I would think if you are achieving proper alignment at a given anchor (since you say you have battled with collapse in the past), stick with that one.  Again gents, feel free to correct me of I'm wrong.

Jake

[McDave]

I am curious for you eyebrow shooters, how tilted downward is your head? Maybe my noggin isn't the type where this'll work.
 

Here is what my anchor looks like.  You even get a free view of my handsome TradGang tee shirt.  I don't try to change the tilt of my head to make my string meet my eyebrow.  I think being subject to the forces of gravity over 70 years has done that for me.

 

[Sirius Black]

I would think that bowstring-to-eyebrow will depend on the length of your bow also...?  I'm an eyeglasses wearer, so some of these things don't work for me.