Fixed Crawl questions

[snowplow]

Hi guys, I am very seriously thinking of giving the fixed crawl a go. I have a 56" Javaman Helmsdeep and wonder if such a short bow would act funny when crawling. I seems to me a 3 piece would be able to be tuned to the crawl really well and a short single piece would be the most upset by the tactic.

I have tried it just a bit and its really noisy on my bow. Is there any other adverse effects that I should worry about?

You dont know what you dont know, so I'm struggling to ask the right questions here. Feel free to read my mind...    

I played around with string walking years ago with long target bows.  It is a bit more complicated than fixed crawl.  Most of the time crawl is used for two or three short range options.  If a bow has adjustable limbs it works better, but on a shorter one piece it will throw the limb timing off.  If you are having difficulties aiming you do have other options.   My first would be to shoot split finger, work on good repeatable form, good arrow flight.  Start up close with your good form and good set-up and just shoot, keeping an open mind about all aspects of your shot and what your eyes observe.  It is not that difficult to be accurate out to 25 yards, but things can get messed up, mostly by lack of confidence and shooting with inconsistent form.  Whether you aim with the arrow or not, your eyes and muscle memory can be trained to 'see' the shot.  The second option would be to put a three pin bow sight on your bow, shoot through the sight, not to it.  I do not like any method that does not allow a variable bow cant, but sometimes a mechanical aiming process can help.  The fixed crawl using the arrow as an aiming point makes for a very fat sight pin.

[tracker12]

All I shoot is a crawl but am curious if anyone does with that short of a bow.

[katman]

60" bolt down 3 piece is the shortest one I have tuned to a fixed crawl but it is a static recurve and no finger pinch. It shoots much better with the bear weather rest on vs. off the shelf. Keep us informed how it goes. If your bow is tillered for split it may be a little louder and need a pretty high nock point. Also depending on your crawl distance it may require less spine on the arrow as you are drawing shorter/less weight.

[snowplow]

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I tried it for quite a while today and was really surprised. For one, I did need less spine. For two it sounds like my bow is in pain lol.

However, even totally out of tune and trying out out for the first time I was dropping them in a paper plate at 40 just eye balling and experimenting with the crawl. I didn't expect it to go so well.

So I have an idea and a question:

Am I correct that you will not be able to cant with a crawl?

Also I'm pretty sure my bow is tillered for split. Thats how I shoot and its way quieter that way. However, I was also thinking of a feather rest. I'd like my point on to be at 40 so that makes my crawl about 1/2" shooting AD trad lites. (And I anchor to the corner of my mouth with my middle finger just like when I shoot split) So that would put my hand position roughly where it would be for 3 under. Still a little louder than split but nothing like the crawl.

Do you guys have any better ideas?

[katman]

I shoot with a cant crawling, My set up lets me look right down the entire shaft. Full length arrows will shorten your point on as will a higher anchor. You could also raise your nock point a little higher just before you get porpoising.

[RC]

I don`t shoot a crawl but I have played with it. I have found that you can move your nock up to around 3/4 and it will cut the distance of your crawl gap down a lot. Your bow will be in less "pain".lol
  I moved my nock up and shoot instinctive somewhat to around 20 yards. My point on is 28 and I am feeling really deadly at that range. Good luck,RC

[RC]

The only time I  cant the bow a lot is when I have a close shot 15 yards or less and I shoot instinctive then anyway. RC

[NYRON]

I've shot a fixed crawl on bows as short as 58" but it definitely works better on longer bows. Also, I've had better luck with crawls on recurves.

Getting the arrow off the shelf with a feather rest or some type of flipper rest will really help to tame things down.

Good luck with it.

Ron

[snowplow]

Thanks a lot guys. I'll order a feather rest to try. What are the negatives of an elevated rest?

Stiffer spine/less power to the arrow?

That's all I can think of...

[Longbowcrowder66]

I tried the fixed crawl for the first time the other day... I shot really tight groups but found that the string slapped my nose and couldn't figure out why. Hurt like hell so I stopped. Any ideas why?

[katman]

Big nose? lol
Make sure you are not turning your head to the right for a right hander when drawing.

The elevated rest will change dynamic spine if it effects center shot. Otherwise you need to raise nock point on string to match the elevation.

[Scott E]

Originally posted by Longbowcrowder66:
I tried the fixed crawl for the first time the other day... I shot really tight groups but found that the string slapped my nose and couldn't figure out why. Hurt like hell so I stopped. Any ideas why?

It happens to a lot of people. Put some scotch tape on your nose. It sounds stupid but it really helps.