Arrow spine

[LaBill67]

Question for you expert shooters out there. My bow sets right  between the 40-45 and 45-50 ranges on weight where the breakpoint is for spine choice. So what is the general recommendation, should I go for the lower or the higher spine? Sorry if this is very basic question for some, but I'm still learning.

[McDave]

The best procedure is to tune your arrows to your bow so they are exactly the right spine, regardless of the weight of your bow.  You start with a bare shaft that is close to the right spine, and then trim it, change the point weight, and adjust the nock point until it flies straight.  If you are not familiar with this procedure, I recommend you buy the Masters of the Bare Bow series of DVD's, which you will enjoy for a variety of reasons, and look at Ken Beck's presentation on bare shaft tuning in Vol. 2.  

If you are not quite ready for this yet, just buy a half dozen of the nearest spine according to the charts and start shooting.  It doesn't really matter if they are slightly stiff or weak.  You will burn through the first half dozen arrows pretty quickly, but save one that is straight so you can trim off the feathers, and it will be the first addition to what will hopefully become a growing collection of bare shafts.

BTW, this forum is for shooting form questions.  Equipment (and arrow) related questions are better posted in PowWow.

[BMorv]

LaBill, those weights are normally set for fiberglass traditional bows with pretty close to center pass throughs. I've seen your post on the Bowyer's Bench, so I'm assuming you want arrows for a bow you've built.  
If you do decide to buy a half dozen as McDave suggested, I would get the weaker ones.  I'm on bow 8, and they all end up needing weaker arrows than the charts suggest for my draw weight.

[BMorv]

But just to be clear, you will still have to do the things McDave suggest to get those arrows flying true in your bow with your setup.  It's seems like rocket science when you are first starting out, but it really isn't that complicated once your start testing the arrows yourself.  The difference between a tuned arrow and one that's not is like night and day in a traditional wooden bow.

[LaBill67]

Thanks fellows. I appreciate you taking the time to enlighten a novice. Yes BMorv they are for the bow I built.

[kenneth butler]

Are you saying your bow is 45# and asking which to get 40-45# or 45-50# That is what I read and if so the answer will be different.>>>------> Ken