Old trad recurve longevity

[bkupris]

I assume there is no clear cut answer to this one but... What is the shelf life of some of the old trad recurves nocking around these days? In particular I have a couple of old Herters recurves. They both date in the late 60's. They are in great shape and probably little used. I have been shooting them regularly for a couple years. Dacron strings and heavy arrows of course. But they show no signs of stress etc. The marked poundages are still spot on! I find this amazing considering they are 40 years old! Just how long can one expect these and similar old bows to last ?

[Horney Toad]

There is no answer. I have shot old bows for years. I also had a 1957 kodiak explode the first time I pulled it back. Something tells me the heavier weight bows are more prone to failure.

[bear1336]

No one can tell I am still using a 1968 Bear Grizzly with no problems and I had a 1972 Grizzly break on me and I only draw 27in.

[bow'narrow]

I bought a Pearson Mustang in 1960.  Still one of my favorite shooters.  Two Bear Tamerlanes and a Howatt Ventura are still showing no wear.  I do have a l971 Howatt Super Diablo which shows horizontal stress lines above and below the riser.  More's the pity.  A beautiful bow that took me on lots of hunts.  I have a letter from Bear Archery suggesting that I not shoot my old "Pat. applied for" Grizzly.  I suspect that most cared for bows can go through at least three or four generations of shooters.   Bow'narrow

[PAPALAPIN]

Just be carefull when first stringing and shootin any old recurve.  Once strung,  flex it a few times and listed for creeks and groans.  Then leave it strung up over night.  When you are redy to try it out, half draw it a few times, then full draw it.  Shoot a few arrows through it at hless than full draw.  Once you can shoot it at full draw, it should be OK for the future.  I have many bows from the 60's and they all shoot fine.  The only one that cracked up on me wa a '63 Kodiak Magnum Type I dogleg.  That bow should never even be strung.  It had a poor design and most of them ended up exploding.  Same thing with the TYPE II.  The Type III should be OK.  

One thing keep in mind: NEVER - NEVER - NEVER - NEVER -NEVER string a bow without a bow stringer.  More recurve bows have met their end by improper stringing than any other factor.

Just my thoughts.

[spikebuck]

as a collector of the old bear bows i have over 40 old bows dating from 1953-1973 and pound for pound they will hang with or outperform some customs today and i shoot them all regularly!!!ironicly the only bow ever destroyed by me was a 2006 savanna longbow (go figure) although martin replaced it with no problems..as long as there is no metal (aluminum) in the limbs shoot em!!!!

[bkupris]

Interesting comments and some good advice, think I'll just continue to shoot and enjoy them !

[shamus]

ttt

[Bjorn]

I can't leave an old Bear on the wall...........they all need to be taken out sometimes. I have shot the aluminum lam jobs, and the 'crystal lights' too.  The aluminum lams will start to take a set as the metal fatigues and that looks major ugly-like too much string follow, so they don't tempt me anymore. I have a 'mint' 1950 64" Kodiak with a very low serial number-2886, with the aluminum lam. I shot some 700 grain arrows out of it once a few years ago-don't know how fast they went; but seemed as fast as any modern 60# bow.

[PAPALAPIN]

Glad Shamus brought this thread back to the top.  It is an interresting one.

In my opinion, the '60's were the golden years for traditional bows.  That is when all the bows I like were made.  Many still survive today and give good service.  If it has lasted 40 years, I see not reason it can't last 40 more if properly taken care of.

I don't mean to bash the new generation of custom bowyers.  They are making some fine equipment, with many new improvements.  But it is interesting that, in the '60's, Mass production companies were putting out bows that are still kicking today.

Aside from my later model Jack Howard bows, the '60's model are my favorites.

[d. ward]

Bouts 99% of bows that break are 99% of the time caused by the same thing or things.Dry fire's (split noc-broken arrow) ie no arrow on the string at the time of release.Sometimes string breakage dry fire to light of arrow weight or FF strings will blow the glue joint at the fade outs.(especialy on bows built before about 1984) It can cut one limb tip clean OFF.Failure of paper tip overlay matiral used in the 50's-60's also caused a few problems along this same line.Small chips in the back glass along the edges of the limbs!!!! Thats a bad one.Thats the tenstion side,it kinda pulls and seperates the glass fibers.They rarely ever hold even when repaired with the best glues.Like Rickie said heat and real old crossweave don't mix well.But first and formost the one that breaks more old bows and new bows alike.Is stringing and unstringing them.You can check with Black Widow Bob Lee and Martin just to mention a few whom all supply bow stringers with thier new bows and will tell ya quick.If it breaks and a bow stringer was not used or one was used improperly (missing one side of the string nocs)they will not warrenty the bow.We should always us a stringer for our own safety and the bows safety too.As for the life of one new or old!!!! man thats a tough call there.But Jack mentioned will taken care of bows should last our life time and then some.Before ever stringing any bow new or old,I always inspect them from noc to noc.I shoot a 1964 Bear Kodiak and have probley shot at least 10,000 arrows plus from the old girl.I love that bow so much I let her live in the house.She's never been up or down without stringer.......bd

[d. ward]

Thank you Jack your to kind.I kinda remember the auction sight,and never forgot the bows.They are great shooters and for sure have the vintage Bear bow sound.Ya gotta love it huh?  bd

[JD]

And here I've been going back and forth in my mind about getting a 63 Kodiak...