Brass INserts and Carbon Arrows

[c_lantz]

Will hot glue work for weighted brass inserts, 50 or 100grain, or should you use and epoxy?

[FJTOYMAN]

I use hot melt. Havn't had any problems. Easier to tune as well.

[FJTOYMAN]

I should add that you apply the heat to the tip never directly to the shaft. The carbon can't take direct heat like an aluminum.

[JRY309]

For me I never use a hot melt glue on carbons.Some guys have used hot melt and I have before myself but when I ruined a new Carbonwood that was the last time.I use Powerbond for inserts whether they are brass or aluminum on carbons,never had one come out yet.Carbons are tough shafts but do not take excess heat very well,some of them state on the shaft do not heat.All I do is clean and prep the shaft(by etching the inside) and use Powerbond.I even lighly scratch the brass insert and wipe clean with alcohol before glueing.I even tune mine without glueing first,I hold the insert in with pushing the insert in with some plastic food wrap,it hold the insert in tight enough.I use a 2" foam target in front of a bag target.The foam hold the arrow in position and the bag target doesn't pull the insert back out with the plastic holding it in.I then prep and glue the insert when I'm done tuning.

[c_lantz]

Sorry, that is what i ment "hot melt"

[Smallwood]

i use hot melt and even stump shoot with my arrows and haven't had it fail as long as it is the amber colored stuff and not the clear stuff.
i screw a field point into the insert, hold the field point with pliers and heat the hot melt and apply it to the insert. then, heat the insert/glue for a second and then insert into your shaft with a twisting motion until fully seated. i then dunk the tip in water to set the glue.

[skidmark]

I agree with smallwood . I have had better luck with amber ferrultite than the clear hotmelts. Generally, I do this during the tuning procedure, and once I like the flight, I will use powerbond. Seems to hold the best with Goldtips. Powerbond is heat reversible also,but, as others mentioned, care must be taken as not to damage shafts.... Dave

[katman]

skidmark summed it up for me.

[Shawn Leonard]

Samllwood is correct, but ya can also use heat reversal epoxy. I like epoxy as hot-melt even the amber stuff seem to get brittle. Ya can use either one, just make sure that when ya use a field point to heat and remove the insert be careful not to let the shaft get to hot or you will ruin it. Shawn

[sswv]

Pine Ridge Archery Products "instant arrow glue"

best I've tried so far and I've tried about everything available in the past 25-30 years. it holds tight AND' releases easily with heat.

[Arco]

Devcon 5 minute epoxy. I have glued in I don't know how many inserts with this stuff (I work at an archery shop on saturday building arrows), and I have never had a customer complain of one coming out. It's easy to mix, gives you a little bit of time to rotate the insert and make sure it's aligned, and holds like my cousin to the last turkey leg at thanksgiving...

[TaterHill Archer]

I've had nothing but trouble with hot melt.  I put my last ones in with Ferr-L-Tite and shot them into a foam target.  When I pulled the arrows, the inserts and heads stayed in the target.  I mostly use JB Weld or Golf club Epoxy.  I haven't need to take any out that I used Golf club epoxy on, but I have removed inserts that were glued in with JB Weld.  Just screw a head in and heat it. JB Weld is heat reversible, but holds up very well.

[12ringman]

To tune I use the wife's reg hot melt. Then after I get the length of the shaft I want I either use Bohning Power Bond or Ferr-l-tite. If you clean the inside of your carbon shaft with a .270 brass or copper brush and clean it with lacquer thinner you should not have any problems with bond with either of the later. Also, if you have to remove them screw in a field point and heat the point and not the shaft directly.