help tunning arrows

[tradtusker]

ok this has driving me nuts the last few days and im can't seen to get anywhere, please could you offer some help or suggestions        

thanks Andy

[robtattoo]

Lift your left arm a bit? Sorry Andy, can't help with this one??? If it's any help, Andy shoots 3-under.

[Pete W]

I shoot 3 under and most of my bows nock 3/4", and some up to 1", Keep moving the nock up and see what happens.

Pete

[c_lantz]

Based on what I have read on here, I think you are overspined.

[tradtusker]

iv been back to the bail to shoot and tried moving my nocking point up i moved it untill it was comfortably past 1" high and looks stupid, still the arrows are not flying anywhere near strait. i just cant see how thats possible.

i think ill start again with full length arrows and see what happens, maybe 29" was to short to start with  :confused:

[McDave]

It could also be a tillering problem.  Just for fun, try shooting split fingers just as a test and see if that makes any difference.

Do you have other arrows where the bare shafts and fletched shafts group together with that bow?  If you do, then it's probably not a tillering problem.

[dan ferguson]

At 20 yrds just shooting the feathered shafts do?

[Longbowwally]

You got the right idea on going back to the full length arrow and starting from there. At least you'll be able to see if the spine is the issue. Of course you could build out your shelf a little - put a match stick under your sideplate or something like that - and that should make the arrow act stiffer and shoot where you want it. I'm assuming you're right handed....

Also, for me, when I shoot a full length arrow, I'll shoot low 'cause I normally shoot a shorter 29" arrow. Keep that in mind when you start with the longer arrow - and don't worry about the up and down till you get the left and right where its supposed to be. Then I'd keep messing with the nocking point till my up and down is right.

JMHO

[robtattoo]

I can't help but think, Andy, once you've got the left/right problem sorted, just fletch the arrows mate. If they all group together, as they should, just adjust your aim. The difference could just be that you've moved to a faster bow than you're used to.
When I swapped from the Navajo to the Horne it took me a while to get used to the flatter trajectory caused by the 25fps difference mate. The Shrews are really quick & it'll take a litte gettin used to.

[Shawn Leonard]

Andy, you are over spined, those bow are not cut to center about an 1/8th from it. You either hav to leave them 250 31"s or and 200 grains up front, or go to the 150s and cut to 28-28-1/2"s and go with the 200 up front. Shawn

[tradtusker]

thanks guy, i appreciate the help a lot.
i did try shoot split finger but the problem was still the same,
i when on what Rob, Joey and Shawn first told me that they where way over spined, so i started at 32" with 300grs up front and they shot better, i then cut it down to 31.5" and then 31" and now they shoot dead strait    

just got a realy long heavy arrow.

thanks agian Andy

[Yolla Bolly]

Andy---could it be that the nock is touch the shelf as it passes, kicking it up and mimicing a knock-high flight?
Maybe changing your brace hight a bit would fix it.

[Yolla Bolly]

[Trad Man 25]

Andy,, Sounds like your shooting a Spear, out of your Little Shrew,, If your having problems,,
Just Wait Till i Get home at Xmas, and we try getting my arrows to fly straight out of my Hill,,  :D ,, i cant wait to shoot it,,, but i think were going to have some problems with that baby,

the shrew long bow,, and a Hill long bow,, apart from the extra 12 inces in length my bow has,, will be interesting to see the difference, lol  :D

See you soon,,

James (  The Beast Out East )

[tradtusker]

yip james looking forward to it!
gonna try a few heritage 150s like Shawn said and see how they go!