The way it was suggested to me is to use a heat gun. I have a 1956 Kodiak, 60" and 54# that arrived with a twist in the upper limb and a double in the lower. Before stringing, sight down the limbs by resting one tip on a table and holding the other. It helps to have good light to determine where the twist is located.
With mine, I used two small glass bubbles set on the riser near the fade out, because this area is probably straight, but hard to see due to the curve in the riser. At this point the bow is resting on two T's on a work bench or table. Blocks of wood under the fadeout once level will help.
Using the heat gun, with a setting around 500 degrees, pass the gun over the area that needs to be twisted, on both sides. Caution, should be used as you could weaken the glue lines with too much heat. You should be okay if you can hold it in your hands. Reverse the twist by bumping the limb. If you have a heavy weight, it will take considerable pressure to reverse the twist. If you think you have it by sighting or using a level, string the bow, check it and leave it until it cools. It should hold. Remember good and warm not overly hot.
If the twist is in the recurve, you might see it better with the tips up. I used a pencil to mark the several twists and direction. If the twist is in the upper part of the limb, as mine, I had to use considerable torque to get it to move. I hesitate to suggest this, but I used a light towel around the limb, set it on the linoleum floor, but one foot on top of the towel to be able to twist with both hands on the handle. I am sure some might cringe at the thought of this, but extreme twists, sometimes require lots of pressure. Just be sure to hold it flat while twisting.