Screw in broadhead wobble?

[The Ursus]

Does anyone else have this problem?  I'll glue a broadhead on a ferrule, spin-check it, let it dry/cool down and all it good...  BUT I'll switch the "perfectly tuned" head w/instert to another shaft and wobble!-wobble!-wobble!.  What the heck?  So until I figure out why this is happening, I'll just have to tune the heads up to individual shafts and not do any swapping around.  It would be nice not to worry about it.  

Am I just an idiot or what?

[JC]

Luke, short answer, no you're not an idiot (unless I am too, which is possible, cause I've had the same problem).

I have experienced some issues like that when I didn't ensure my shaft/insert were perfect. Ever since I started using the G5 arrow squaring device, this problem only occurs once in a blue moon. This little tool makes sure the ends of the shaft, whether carbon or alum are perfectly square. That said, if the insert is square, and the broadhead adapter is square at it's base (and I have seen both of these out of square from time to time), a true spinning broadhead should be capable of switching shafts without any change in it's true. As an aside, I've found the brass inserts and steel adapters to be more consistent in their straightness than aluminum.

Hope that helps.

[Old York]

No, you're not an idiot. You're doing a very good job tuning out broadhead wobble. The minor differences in tolerances between shafts, inserts, adapters, and broadheads all add up.

[NDTerminator]

I've been meaning to buy that G5 tool, now this seals the deal.  I'm getting one this week!

[wifishkiller]

The G5 tool helps alot!

[JC]

ND, it won't solve all the problems...but it sure takes one more piece out of the equation. As York posted, the minor runout on all the components can add up. I just try to minimize that as much as possible without making my own components. I will say, with attention to detail in my arrow components and assembly, I can easily tell a difference in my accuracy level. All that detail is not absolutely necessary for an accurate arrow, but boy does it help!

[NDTerminator]

I'm a detail kind of guy, I attribute it to my Obsessive-Compulsive nature...

[nockhunter]

I also had this little quirk . When I shot a compound & 3 bladed muzzy , I used to leave the ferral on the shaft and removed just the blades for storage .Now I just leave my magnus heads on all the time .

[The Ursus]

Thanks guys, I was thinking that it had something to do with the insert.  I've been using 100gr brass and figured the added length of the insert would help in keeping things straight but I guess not.  BTW I'm using woodsmans so I'm sure the long head design magnafies flaws.  I'll look up the g5 tool but am reluctant to buy another tool/gadget.

[JC]

Luke, PM sent.

[The Whittler]

Where might one purchase said tool (G50). Thank you. Alan

[The Ursus]

type in "G5 Archery".  That's what I did.

JC-I sent you a PM back.

[Big Sneaky]

If you are gluing in broadhead adapters into your Woodsman, be sure that while letting the glue set the broadhead stays vertical.  If you glue them up and spin them and their perfect then lay them flat to dry the glue will run to one side and cause a serious wobble.  I glue my adapter in the bh and spin it on the shaft that I will shoot.  Then I stand them up to dry and I get along great.  Hope this helps.

[Pete W]

To see if wobble is the broadhead or the shaft/ Insert I spin check my heads in the drill press .

[Naphtali]

I'm verifying I understand where problems might occur. We check these on a dial indicator?

1. One source is the junction of broadhead with its screw-in ferrule.

2. If run-out is acceptable (define "acceptable"), the next source is trueness of male thread of broadhead's screw-in.

3. If thread is not cocked, the next check is concentricity of insert/outsert with shaft?

4. If run-out is acceptable, the next check is female thread's trueness?
***
If I got things accurately, how much TOTAL run-out is too much? How much run-out at any location is too much?