When to apply decals?

[NYRON]

Hi All:

I am refinishing a '66 Kodiak. I plan to use 6 coats of wipe-on poly with wet sanding between coats. At what stage should I apply my new decals and lettering?

I want to thank John Rafferty for doing a great job in weight reduction on this bow and Al Harford for supplying the decals.

So far I have applied 2 coats of poly and the bow looks fantastic.

Thanks,
Ron

[TRAP]

I'd apply the decals on the next coat when its still very slightly tacky.  Then just be careful wet sanding that area untill you have a couple coats over them

Trap

[warpedarrow]

After using scores of coats of TruOil, I'm thinking about poly on the next go around.
You seem to be pleased with the results that you are seeing.  Which type are you using?

[NYRON]

Sounds good. Thanks, Trap.

I'm using Minwax satin wipe-on poly and so far it is working great. It has good penetration and "levels" nicely as it dries.

Perhpas my only complaint is that it dries too quickly, so you need to work fast to blend everything together. That said, fast drieing means less problems with dust. I'm using a 2" foam brush instead of a rag.

I'll post some pictures when I get it finished.

As a side note, after hitting the grocery store this morning I stopped at a yardsale where I picked up a Pearson Mecury Hunter in super condition for $40. It's 60," 50# and shoots like a dream.

Ron

[Ray Lyon]

I put mine on after wiping the first coat of poly (I also used the satin minwax wipe on clear poly). Although some instructions I received said to put decals on while a coat of finish was tacky, I put mine on according to Al's instructions when the first coat of finish on the limbs was dry (I had sanded off all the old finish on the bow to the glass)  I struggled with the foam brush applying too much poly and I ended up with some drip runs in the finish when I went to inspect.  I only wet sanded after getting a couple of coats on (two coats then wet sand with 600 grit, then a coat, wet sand with  1500, coat, wet sand 1500 until I got to 6 coats) and didn't wet sand decal area (got mine from Al too) until I had two coats over that. I have a total of 6 thin coats on the bow using a cotton t-shirt. Apply in dust free area.  Here are before picture of the riser and after pictures of riser and back of bow showing decal and 'white glass'-it was a yellowed color before sanding.:

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I just finished over the weekend. The bow cured for 2 1/2 days after last coat and I put new rest and plate on last night.  Tonight I will shoot for the first time in a  month.  As a side note, the numbers I inked back on were larger than the originals. I made the mistake of working from a 8x10 blown up color paper print out of the original and it made the print look larger than actual, so when I reinked it, I did larger print. Oh well, other than that I'm extremely happy with results.

[NYRON]

Thanks, Ray. I applied the decals this past weekend, following Al's instructions. They went on without a hitch and look great.

After two more coats of finish she'll be ready for a new strike plate and rug rest.

[Ray Lyon]

Glad to hear it Ron.  I've been shooting my bow for about a week now and it's shooting great with some vintage microflite #8's I got off of fleabay. I've got the 1970's camo socks on the limb and my 4 arrow Bear converta quiver on the bow too now, so it's all ready except the deer opener not arriving for two more weeks.

[Ray Lyon]

As soon as the deer cooperate!!!    

[ksbowman]

Ron, Great find on the Pearson at the garage sale! They are a very underated bow. I really like them! I'd sure give you your money back!

[NYRON]

Ben, the Mercury Hunter isn't going anywhere! I have fallen in love with that bow. I have shot a lot of bows, customs and vintage alike, and the BP Mercury Hunter is most definitely one of the best. It's not super fast, but it's quiet and very forgiving. I plan to hunt with it this season and then re-finish it over the winter.

This bow, with its long and massive riser, has got me thinking...why are so many contemporary bows built with short risers and long limbs?

The vintage bows with their long risers and very short limbs make for an unusualy stable platform that is still very manuverable in hunting situations.

For several years my go to hunting bow has been a 15" ILF riser with long limbs, making a 60" bow--the same length as the BP. But, when I pick up the ILF after shooting the BP, it feels very twitchy in my hands. The slightest movement at the bow's grip seems to translate into large movement at the limb tips. That's not so with the BP or my Kodiaks, which also have long-ish risers.

I guess the target archers and Olypians knwow a thing or two that we (mostly) hunters should pay attention to.

[ksbowman]

I knew after shooting it that it would be pretty hard to pry out of your hands. The Mercury Marauders are just as good as the Hunters. They both shoot right where you point them. I taken several critters with them. I've got few of them and other Pearsons and like them all.

[Ray Lyon]

My Super K above is a wonderful shooter. I've shot some old Brownings and Wings that were also fabulous.  The Super K is shooting 550 grain Microflites fairly flat out to 20 yards, is whisper quiet and well behaved in the hand. Shoots right where I'm looking.

I think these old bows don't get the credit they deserve for being excellent weapons that are well crafted--and beautiful to boot when they're all cleaned up.