AMF (wing) Red Wing Hunter recently recovered

[catsfiddle]

Hi!
 My name is Charlie, I'm new to this site, and relatively new to traditional hunting - this is my second year in the field- I'm learning everyday and loving it.
I recently bought an AMF "Wing" archery bow that from what I can tell is circa 1964. It is 45# @ 58" - there are no visible cracks and it will be my secondary bow. Trouble is, the finishing layer (I don't think it's polyurethane)has some holes in it and it's an eye sore. I'd like to take that coat off and reapply a sealant layer (maybe some marine grade teak oil?). What is the best way to get this layer off? I've heard paint stripper is the best way so as to not ruin the tiller, but I'm worried it's too harsh or that it won't be effective where it is still sealed well.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated (I'm a rookie with this stuff and looking to have a new hobby).
Thank you,

Charlie

[catsfiddle]

I would appreciate it

[4runr]

Sandpaper won't ruin the tiller. The person sanding too deep in one area can ruin the tiller. You'll know when you sand thru the fiinish and into the glass or wood.
Just go slow and carefull.

[Hit-or-Miss]

Hi Charlie!

  FYI; Bob Lee sold Wing Archery in 1968. And although Mr. Lee stayed on as President of Wing Archery for a few more years, a Head Ski / AMF sticker indicates post 1968 to mid 70's manufacture.

I have an AMF Red Wing Hunter in 50#, and it is a wicked little weapon. Not as nice (finish wise), as the older pre-68 Wings, but it's a great bow, same design, power & speed.  I'm hunting with it and some Zwicky tipped cedars this fall.

[catsfiddle]

Thanks for the heads up- I've printed out the info and it looks like I've got a weekend ahead of me.

Hit-or-Miss thanks, I called over to Bob Lee bows and asked about it- the lady there told me that it'd be hard to judge the age, but maybe because the ending digits in the 6 letters on the limb it was that year. Do you know of any other way to date 'em?

[oldbohntr]

Paint stripper IS bad advice!  Truthfully, I have used it in extraordinary conditions, where there were multiple layers of very thick or gummy finishes...but largely only on the faces of the glass and only leaving it on for seconds before steel wooling or scraping it off. Once it softens a bit, you can scrape most of the old finish off with a sharp knife or cabinet scraper.   Sounds harsh, but really not so much.  Don't go too deep with anything, and the right choices in sandpaper grits will take you down to the right surface for refinish.  I use  1000-1200-1500-2000 grit wet-or-dry paper for the last surface prep.  

However this all sounds, I prefer not to ever use chemicals to remove finish, relying on mechanical means instead.

[catsfiddle]

Good to know. thanks for all the help.