Bareshaft Help...

[Deadbolt]

Well got my 2016s in and decided to start playing around with them.  I put a 145g tip on and started 1/4-1/2 inch at a time bareshafting from about 12 yards in the shop.  First shot at full length was severe knock left.  I kept cutting and shooting until now i am at 28 1/2 inches and still getting a slight knock left in flight.

Im drawing 27" and was wondering if I should keep cutting down anymore?

Tomorrow I will bring it outside and take some 15-20 yard shots and see how they fly I was just curious where ya'll think I should go from here?  Should I start to just play with point weight or should I keep trimming down a bit to get where I need to be with a bareshaft?

[JRY309]

I would try a 125 gr. point and see how it reacts before cutting any more.I like to keep aluminum arrows at least 1" past my draw for use with a broadhead.You could still cut it down to 28".What poundage bow are you shooting and what kind of bow.Then I would fletch up a couple and see if they group with the bareshaft.Feathers will add alittle weight and slightly stiffen the spine.

[Matt E]

I have used 2016 alum. 29 1/4" long, 125 grain point in a 50# at my draw. I draw 28". This is a long bow.
   You didn't mention the draw weight nor type of bow. I am thinking you are to stiff already

[Cherokee Scout]

You might also try putting something under your shelf material to build it out. This should allow you to shoot a slightly lighter spined shaft.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Tom, why didn't You just match them up like the arrow You have of Mine???

The bareshaft tuning I do is just seeing if bare group with fletched. I don't know why a 29"BOP w/145grn point arrow flies great from Your set-up, but now your bareshafting and You have cut more off...

[Deadbolt]

Sal it flies with the fletching but wanted to try my hand at bareshafting to get proper arrow flight...i know with them big nannas on there jsut about anything will fly LOL.

And I tried it at that length and it was way off.

As for my bow Im shooting a 45@28 Ancient Spirit Thunderhawk drawing 27"

[Woodduck]

No more cutting and try the 125 gr. point like suggested.

[Guru]

Hey bud, If it's bareshafting slightly left when you get out side(20yds)....no need to do anything. From what I've found, a slightly weak, slightly nock high arrow is what you want for the most forgiving arrow.

 If it get's a little crazy at the longer distance, then you'll either have to cut a 1/2" more off, or probably just get away with 125gr head....

[Deadbolt]

hey thanks everyone!!!

xmas morning i will be out there testing it out...had to pull a couple extra 24hour shifts this past week so no time but its all I've been thinking about LOL.

[Kingstaken]

What Guru said.  Another thing is how much you cant the bow while drawing will show what is actually a kock high as being a spine issue and what is thought to be a spine issue as a nock height issue. I bare shaft wit the bow staight up and down thru paper till I'm happy, then no matter what position you have to shoot you will get great arrow flight.

[Deadbolt]

Well I went out and finally got a chance to shoot.  Went out to 20 yards and flung a few with the 145g tips.  The flew decent and recovered but still hit a little off.  When i tried the 125g tips they flew perfect and I was dead on bareshaft out to 25 yards.

So looks like I'll be shooting the 125s with these arrows and my overall arrow weight is still pretty high like I wanted it.  I'll be coming in over 10g/inch.  Once I fletch I'll get the exact amount just waiting on my wraps to come in.

[jacobsladder]

Im with Guru!...

[BRITTMAN]

Yep Guru is right , when you add the fletchings to a slightly weak bareshaft it will stiffin it up just perfect.

mike