Help with my cedars.

[Deadbolt]

I was tempted to use a different title there but wanted to keep it G rated LOL.

Anyhow I have a few questions on some cedar shafts I have.

They are 11/32 full length and am currently staining and what not.

I was playing around and noticed the field points I purchased dont fit.  The knock is fine but the field points are very deep and when I taper the end it doesn't go deep enough (using the bear taper tool).  Do I just need to hand taper these with sand paper or something or do I need a different size points for these cedars?

Also for glue I use the Ferr-L-Tite but it peeled off very easy when I tested it on the wood is this normal?  I didn't put much I just wanted to see if it would work but it simply peeled right off.  Should I be using an epoxy or something?

[SCATTERSHOT]

Are you sure the shafts are 11/32? There are some that are 23/64, and they require a 23/64 point. As for the glue not sticking, what kind of stain did you use? If it's a oil base, not much will stick to it. Be sure you use a compatible finish, and then the glue should stick to the clear finish OK.

[Quill Flinger]

This thread has changed entirely on me & my comments are meaningless now...LOL

[Deadbolt]

I was told the shafts are 11/32 I guess I will have to measure em myself.

[always89]

Did you clean the points before installing? Machine oil is used in the turning process, and a good cleaning is needed. Soak in dish detergent and water, and sand the inside a bit after drying.

[Boneyard Bowhunter]

Some taper tools don't have a stop and give you a long pointed tip. Try cutting about 1/4" of the end and see if this helps. If not Scattershot hit the nail on the head.

[Deadbolt]

Originally posted by always89:
Did you clean the points before installing? Machine oil is used in the turning process, and a good cleaning is needed. Soak in dish detergent and water, and sand the inside a bit after drying.

Didn't think of that sorry!  I'm use to screw in heads with my aluminums Thank You!!

[Deadbolt]

Originally posted by Boneyard Bowhunter:
Some taper tools don't have a stop and give you a long pointed tip. Try cutting about 1/4" of the end and see if this helps. If not Scattershot hit the nail on the head.

The bear paw has a stop and I'm thinking the shaft isn't 11/32 but in actuality its 23/64

[MYSTIKBOW]

If they were 23/64 I would think you would have a little trouble getting it in the 11/32 taper tool.

[Stone Knife]

Tom I always clean the inside of my points with alcohol on a Qtip, then i flame the inside to make sure all the oil is gone. Ferrule tight is pretty good stuff but it has a tendency to let the tip break loose in cold weather. The softer glue that comes in a long stick on 3rivers site is what i like the best, but that is a matter of personal preference. i have the cheaper taper tools also and find on some shafts they don't get the taper quite right. One of these days I'm going to get a better tool. Good luck with the woodies.

[Deadbolt]

mystikbow the bear taper tool is just a glorified pencil sharpener and there is plenty of room until you get to the blade.

SK yea I will clean the tips out and see how it works once Im done finishing the shaft.  Just put the second stain coat and i need to wrap and seal em.

[Shawn Leonard]

You may have 5/16th. field points for one and yes clean them out. You can also use two ton epoxy which is heat reversable and kind of nice as ya can spin the arrow to make sure your points are on straight. Shawn

[Shawn Leonard]

I went and looked actually did it while on here. I tried my pencil sharpener taper tool on a 11/32nd. and that a 5/16th. field point and it is exactly as you describe. I bet that is the problem. Shawn