Designing the ultimate wooden bow......

[the Ferret]

Rusty in my example I said I'd back my bow with a single layer of sinew. Here's my thinking behind that. The sinew would make the bow durn near indestuctible and help it maintain it's side profile over the long haul helping it maintain it's performance. That is a best case scenario. Now I realize that if my sinew got wet, it could possibly lift. Then, lets go with a worst case scenario ..I get caught in torrential 3 day rain, by hide glue gets drenched, softens and my sinew lifts entirely. Ugly as heck, but don't I still have a good 1 growth ring back on my osage underneath? May lose a couple of pounds, but I shouldn't lose my bow entirely. Is this an acceptable risk for the benfits that the sinew gives it when dry?

[trashwood]

Absolutely Mickey.  I'd likely do the same exact thing.  when winew is a liablity is when ya put a lot of pre-stress in the bow before ya sinew it.

if a bow is not pre-stress and a modest amount of sinew put on the back it is a dandy, hard hunting, bullet proof bow.  it is the bow that I build today mostly.  i think I would put a lenght  stipulation in the formula.  there is a length bow that sinew (if not pre-stressed alot) does not carry it's on weight.  60" osage with a good ring on the back and a modest amount of sinew is likely (IMO) the ulimate wooden bow.  I was just afraid to bring sinew in the mix of "wooden bows")  

rusty

[trashwood]

PS - while I think snake skins and catfish skins (esp catfish skin) make the sinew back more weather proof, they don't carry their on weight.  a good massey finish is lighter and almost as bullet proof as skin.  not near as handsome though.

rusty

[the Ferret]

Agree with everything you've said Rusty.

I have got to try that massey finish. Need someone to do a pictorial on it. How about it Rusty?

[Dano]

You guy's just need to try Thunderbird, I think you'll like it.    


 http://tbirdarchery.com/

[the Ferret]

Dano in looking over the link, it mentions brush on and spray, but in the instructions for application, only spray. I know the thunderbird gives you a deep rich finish, but I'm not sure about mixing a&b waiting 30 mins add thinner, then cleaning sprayer with Tbird cleaner. Nice finish but looks a little equipment and labor intensive to me.Describe your application process if you will.

I personally found too many problems with spray application (to cold out, too windy, wind changing direction,no spray booth, lack of ventilation in winter) which is why I gave up on sprays and went to hand rubbed tru oil. Tru oil dries in 30 mins and takes 3 coats for a non backed bow or 6 coats for a skinned bow and seems to give a durable finish that is easy to touch up if needed.

Would like to see the application process of the massey finish though too, I've heard good things about it as well.

[Dano]

Labor intensive, well of course, that's what a good finish is all about to me. Once mixed the finish will be good for a week if kept in the fridge. Temp. in the shop does have to be around 60 deg F. I use a little air brush, very easy to clean, you don't need a compressor, you can use canned propellant. I spray on two coats 2 hours apart and let that dry for two days then wet sand with 400 gr. 6 coats is usually good but over skins it might take 8-10 to get a glass finish.

 I would like to hear about Massey as well, I'm open for something better.  :D

[John Nail]

Mickey, I'd start with an excellent Osage board that was good enough to make a backed board bow from and then cut some laminates from it. The reason being that it would have less tendency to string follow over time. With a 66" bow and Urac, I don't think the glue lines would be a problem. I may be way off base, but it makes sense to me.

[the Ferret]

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[Shaun]

Thanks Mickey, I am starting a build along of the consensus bow from this thread and will post it as a new thread. More to come ...