Most of my friends and acquaintances who hunt shoot compound bows. To my knowledge, none have ever taken the time to learn how to tune an arrow. Most have never even learned (or care to learn) how to fletch an arrow. They simply buy them prefletched and have them cut to size and the point insert installed. I suppose this why when you visit a large archery shop like Cabelas, Bass Pro Shop, etc. - there is always an entire wall of prefletched arrows available and often, just a token supply of shafting material and arrow building supplies.
When my compound shooting friends want their BOW tuned or the string replaced, or the cam adjusted, or a cable tightened, or the cushion-plunger upgraded, they just take it to a local archery pro shop, lay down their money, and pick their bow up a few days later. Most know nothing about brace height, kinetic energy, momentum or FOC. Most have never even heard of Dr. Ed and could care less about his landmark tests on penetration. For that matter, most have never even heard of Saxton, Pope, Ishi, St. Charles, Asbell, et al. Most find it AMUSING that I insist on shooting "such heavy arrows" and "waste my time" buying broadheads that I have to sharpen myself. EVERY ONE of my friends who shoots a compound can out shoot me using their un-tuned, prefletched, arrows. So I can say with absolute certainty that they aren't too concerned about arrow spinners, arrow wobble and other such "trivial" matters. If their arrow hits 4 inches off at forty yards, this is simply compensated for with a quick adjustment to the forty yard pin while still out on the 3-D course.
Arrow wobble matters to ME because I find the arrow tuning process challenging and time consuming enough using arrows that spin true to begin with. Arrow wobble also matters to me because I insist that my broadheads are mounted PERFECTLY true. I check for broadhead wobble two ways. I vertically spin my broadhead tipped arrows on a hard flat surface looking for wobble. I also check for wobble by placing my arrow on a horizontal spin tester and paying close attention to the tip of the broadhead as I rotate the arrow. I always begin my arrow tuning/building process by spin checking my arrows. I’ll take an arrow that spins true and use that arrow to experiment with while bare shaft tuning. The other arrows that spin true are used as practice/hunting arrows. Those that do not spin true are used for stumping and small game hunting.
This is WHY arrow wobble matters to me. The fact that compound bow shooters can out shoot me with un-tuned, prefletched, store bought arrows does not lessen my expectation that my high end carbon arrow shafts should spin true right out of the box (as my XX78 always do) and also meet or exceed the other specifications that they are marketed to have.