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Author Topic: Sanding overlays  (Read 648 times)

Offline Archer1019

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Sanding overlays
« on: January 14, 2008, 08:47:00 PM »
Describe for me your process and tools used to fade the overlays into the riser.  I seem to end up with a glue line showing from under the overlay as I attempt to feather the ends of the overlay.
..believe on the Lord Jesus Christ and thou shalt be saved.. Acts 16:31

Offline Tom Leemans

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2008, 08:18:00 AM »
That's natural. How it looks just depends on the color of the glue. Don't worry about it.
Got wood? - Tom

Offline ALW

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2008, 08:48:00 AM »
I've only glued them on selfbows but I pre-taper them before gluing them on.  Make it as thin as possible where it fades into the limb.  It only has to be pre-thinned the last 1/4" or so, but just enough that all you have to do is clean up the glue line when your are done and not actually have to work the overlay material down much.  Hope this makes sense.  Also try and get the mating surfaces as smooth and matched up as possible and it really cuts down on a sloppy looking glue line.  I'm still working on that one!  LOL...

Aaron

Offline d. ward

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2008, 09:03:00 AM »
Old companys used to shape them with eather a drum sander or upright standing belt sander after glueing the overlays to the bow.Most of those guy's did it freehand.But if you look at lots of old bows you will see tons of them with sanding marks right at the ends...as for me.No way,bouts 12 years ago I got one yanked out of my hand and into the sander doing that.I am 100% with ALW,prefab them.I glue up 3 layers of fiberglass or wood and as discribed above,pre-taper,Glue them to the bow with some gel formoula super glue.bd

Offline ChuckC

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2008, 02:18:00 PM »
I mark a line onto the glass using a pencil, showing where the glued on piece ends.  I put a piece of masking tape across the limb at that point and rough up the glass with sand paper.  Then I glue on the piece, usually with cyanoacrylate of some sort.  I believe the tape allows me to glue without much glue run off plus it gives a little bit of protection to the glass as I sand or file down the insert. I find myself using a file for most roughing, but I use it as a draw file almost as much as in the classic manner.  In tight areas, I hold it close with two hands and using an edge, move it back and forth only a fraction of an inch.  I can control the motion much better.  Then I sand.
ChuckC

Offline Bodork

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2008, 08:57:00 PM »
When I started, I used the 2 ton epoxy. It holds great but I find it hard to feather because the epoxy is harder than the overlay and glass on the limb. Then I went to thick superglue. This works very good. Sets fast so you can get right to work. I too was having trouble blending the overlay the way I wanted. It was good, but not perfect. I have since gone to smooth-on. It takes a day to set because I just use minimal heat to avoid heating the lams up too much but I like the results from smooth on the best. I start with my belt sander. VERY carefully sand the ends of the overlays. I don't get into the glass. Stop before I get too close. Then I go to a file so I can control things better. I try to get as much of the excess glue as I can without hitting the glass. Then I switch to 60 grit. I don't worry too much if I lightly scratch the glass. Then to 100 grit. Again, if I hit the glass a bit, no big deal. Then to 220 and I really work the glue off the glass at this point. You can almost always see a little glue. I moisten my finger and rub it on the glue line. If it's invisible, I'm ready for sealer. I think most people are scared to death to touch the glass. Don't be a gorilla, but don't be afraid to finesse it a bit.
Here are the results I'm after. Mike

 

Online Crooked Stic

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2008, 05:38:00 AM »
I tend to agree with Bodork on the smooth -on for the overlays. Agreed it is not as quick as CA but usally you get better looking results. As far as sanding the glass you have to do it to get good adhesion of your finish. I sand all my glass with 120 grit first then 220. The best thing for the overlays is to pre shape the fade area before gluing. I like to put them on before any grip shaping is done so eveything blends in better. Probably the best teacher is just do some and learn what works for you.
High on Archery.

Offline ethan

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2008, 07:16:00 AM »
I'm with Bodork and Crooked Stic.  I used the gel super glue but the finished product doesn't look as good as with smooth-on.
By the way Bodork, those o'lays look really nice!

Offline elk ninja

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2008, 09:50:00 AM »
Looks like my next step will be to try smooth on, I am only on the CA glue step!  Mine look fine to me though, just a lot of elbow grease.  I feather them out pre-glue up and glue them on one at a time.  let it set, then on to the next one.  Works fine for me.
Mike
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt.
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Offline Archer1019

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Re: Sanding overlays
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2008, 05:19:00 PM »
Great thoughts guys.  Maybe I just needed to sand the superglue down more.
..believe on the Lord Jesus Christ and thou shalt be saved.. Acts 16:31

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