Alternative anvil ideas

[kbaknife]

I got the idea for this topic from a recent post about anvils. I realize that to get a decently sized anvil is not always the easiest thing to do, nor the logical $$$ to spend on a new one for the hobiest knife maker.
Well, I saw this at a recent hammer-in, brought by a full time knife maker, and I INSTANTLY decided I had to make one!!
There is a LAW applied here! I don't remember the exact rule, but it's something like 50#s of anvil per 1# of hammer! That's right. You shold have about a 150# anvil for use with a three # hammer.
These little blocks of steel that some guys are talking about just don't cut it.
The reason for that weight is that each time you strike you work piece with the hammer, it's getting hit on the bottom side as well - from the anvil UP! But this can only be done if the anvil base has enough MASS to absorb and return the inertia of the blow. Small blocks of steel just can't do that.
So, look at these pictures and see if you can devise you own ideas!
There IS one of those small pieces of steel blocks, but it's welded to a vertical piece of 100#+ of railroad track underneath it! It appears this is the only length this guy had, but it shold not be too difficult to get a piece cut that would go all the way to the ground. I know I have a LARGE and tall - not long -  piece of track that is what is called 90# rail, meaning 90#s per foot! It's HEAVY. So, stood on end, and with a decently sized square block of steel on TOP of it, there would be plenty of mass below it.
Anyway, I thought you guys might get some ideas from this.
 
 

 

 

[Bobby Urban]

Well that tidbit of imformation is sre useful.  I had no idea about the pound per 50lbs weight ratio.

Thanks - Bob Urban

[skillet]

That is a pretty clever way to go for a guy just starting out, or with limited space. Try to keep the make shift anvil the right height for your hammering.  You could also try and make your hardened "anvil" face at least 10" long by 3" wide.  Place it on a piece of rubber mat or conveyor belt and toss some sand bags into that wheel to reduce noise and it bouncing around.

[MYSTIKBOW]

I have often thought that a nice heavy piece of railroad rail stood on end would make a good anvil. As a matter of fact I think I remember reading somthing about that on here?  Anyway, I used to work for a railroad contractor years ago.
 90# rail is the smallest and lightest vthat there is. You can also get 127#&175# rail.
Check to see if there is a railroad subcontractor in your area and give them a call. As I recall when I used to work for one they ALWAYS had pieces in there yard that they could not make use of. You should be able to pick it up for a minimal amount or maybe nothing.  Oh and BTW you can identify how heavy the rail is by looking for the no. (90,127,175) stamped on the flat inside of the rail.

 JOHN

[ksbowman]

Unless I'm mistaken the poundage of rail is per three feet not per foot like steel beam.  Thanks,  Ben

[kbaknife]

Originally posted by ksbowman:
Unless I'm mistaken the poundage of rail is per three feet not per foot like steel beam.  Thanks,  Ben

You are not mistaken - you are correct:


 http://www.icrr.net/rails.htm

[Rick P]

I just mounted the rail on a log of the right height and use the top of the rail as a anvil, why set it on end or weld more things to it when railroad rail makes a great anvil as is?

[kbaknife]

Originally posted by Rick P:
I just mounted the rail on a log of the right height and use the top of the rail as a anvil, why set it on end or weld more things to it when railroad rail makes a great anvil as is?

Re-read the first post - you need the mass of steel directly below your hammer blow. That is why anvils are so heavy and large. Every time you hit your work piece with the hammer, it's getting "hit" from underneath as well. With your set-up, much of your hammer's - and yours! - energy is being dissipated into the log below.
And this idea, by no means, is a substitute for a correct anvil. I have two now, a 150 and a 167, and it's obvious to me that I need to move up to a 260, which will run about $1250.00. When I really want to swing a hammer and move some resistive steel, the 167 just doesn't cut it.
The more mass under that hammer - the better!

[LeeNY]

Thanks Karl, thats just what I've been trying to invision.
I've been picking up tools and material as I go along. The anvil has been a bit of a stumbling block, but not any more!      

[bretto]

Once an Ironhead always a Ironhead right Ben. I've got a bridge rocker bearing plate I'm going to mount to a stump to get it to the right height. 3inches thick and heavy. bretto

[ksbowman]

Three inches thick should equate to 120# per square foot of plate. Just a dumb old ironworker Bretto! I'll never get any smarter just dumber, I'm on the downhill slide.  Ben

[JEFF B]

yup railroad rail works great!!!!