Finishing Sheep horn

[JohnHV]

I'm getting ready to make my first sheep horn handled knives. Was wondering how people finish this material.  

I assume that you don't want to apply any kind of finish but maybe just buff after sanding?

[Lin Rhea]

You are correct. Take it to about 500 grit, buff without much pressure into the wheel. Dont get it hot. Lin

[JohnHV]

Lin

Great!  Thanks for confirming.

If they come out decent I'll post them here.

[Kevin Evans]

John I asked the same question and after doing one Lin didn't emphasize  it enough for me. LOL, DON"T GET IT HOT!!!!

[JohnHV]

Thanks for the warning!

I'll try  hand sanding and then a real light buff.  I may even do a hand buff first and see how that comes out.  

For hand buffing, I put the knife in a vise, handle up, and take a long piece of flannel and work it back and forth like you'd buff a shine on a shoe. I've done buffalo horn that way before and it comes out real nice.

BTW what happens when it gets too hot?  Does it burn?

[Kevin Evans]

Yep it burns leaving a black spot ,then re-sand it out re-spape the handle,then re-sand and you won't do it again. LOL

[JohnHV]

Rooster,

Thanks, I'll try to be patient and do quick touches on the belt sander.  It's hard to be patient!!    

[Ray Hammond]

I don't have any issues with horn on my 1 hp buffer, if I keep the wheel slathered in Matchless green compound and keep my bare hands on the horn to be sure it's not too hot.

[Lin Rhea]

Ray, Are you using one of those loose wheels? Kind of floppy when the machine is off? Lin

[Ray Hammond]

yes...like guitar makers use to buff the body of a guitar.

[Lin Rhea]

I am using a stiff one that is sewed together pretty tight. I need one like yours to use on sheephorn. Lin

[Kevin Evans]

Sorry Ray,I shouldn't have said any thing I have only done Merino sheep horn (Only Three)When I put alot of rouge on it got in the cracks and couldn't even get it out with tooth brush soaked with finger nail polish remover .And when I applied pressure it did burn it.
I did one today that I put new buffing pad on and no rouge It done better.
Think I need something like you have.

[tippit]

I use a soft Linen/Muslin wheel without any compound to buff my sheep horn.  Just keep it moving and haven't had any problems...tippit

[Ray Hammond]

Rooster..I'm thinking if you have "bark" on the horn (so far all of mine have no bark on them) you'd probably only want to use a white compound or as you suggest, nothing at all.

 

If you are doing barked horn, like I've seen on Doug Campbell's and Lin's knives, I think you shoudl think about getting one of those floppy wheels, or the very loose soft sewn ones, cause they definitely do not heat up as much, kind of like the belts that have the crisscross pattern in the grit?

I'm thinking the bark would grab the fire out of the compound and not let go of it, even with acetone.

I should have stated that up front.

One other option would be to use a dremel tool with the 1 inch soft white wheels on them, and just do the "high spots" and leave the bark areas alone.

I do all the finger grooves of my knives with 240, 400, then 800 grit belts that are slacked off the edge of my wheel, then I use the dremel with plenty of rouge to fully brighten to almost mirror the steel in the finger grooves.

I'm betting when I do a bark horn knife I will handle the high ground of the horn with the dremel to see how that does.

[chris amos]

Hi guys, hows it going Lin! Fancy meeting you here! I see Karl's here too, small world! I don't know alot about trad. bowhunting, just making the switch from compounds to a long bow this year, but I do know a little about sheep horn. All the advice you guys have given is right on the money. Work it slow and use light pressure and NEW SHARP belts. This will help keep it from burning. I usually go to files after a 60 grit. Once its shaped pretty darn close I go to hand sanding. I use Brownells Acra Glass for epoxying my spacers and handle on and at about 220 grit I wipe the horn down with a 50/50 thinned mixture of acra glass and then wipe it off immediatly with a clean rag or high quality paper towel. I'll do this about 3 times.After it dries for about 24 to 36 hours i'll sand to about 400 and buff. I use a loose buff with scratchless pink. I have heard a few stories about the green buff showing back up with hand sweat and oil and turning peoples hands green. Ed Fowler taught me this method for sheep horn and he is the expert so I believe him. The thin epoxy coat does a couple things. It fill the natural cracks and rough areas in the horn and helps keep the buffing compound from sticking down in there. It helps to seal and stabilize the horn a little and it helps to keep the bugs from eating at the horn. It seems like the bugs are mostly in the southern states. It also helps get that nice translucent shine and keep it longer between buffings. Hope this helps. When I figure out how to post pics. I'll put a few sheep horn handled knives of mine up here for you guys.

[Lin Rhea]

Good to see you here Chris! We'd love to see some of your work. I'm glad your here boy! Lin

[Ray Hammond]

Chris, that's a great idea about wiping in a finish to fill crevices and stuff. That sure would help to keep your compound out of those places it would stick in.

I appreciate the tip.  Would love to see some of your stuff.