Planner blade, I'm lost

[Tater John]

What I have is a H.S.S. Planner blade made for Yates American. There are two sets of numbers on it that might help to I.D. the metal thats in it, but I can't find out anything and need some help.

Theres a #24, which is more than likely a standard part designation and 710ZE, which I hope someone can call out on. It means nothing to me.

After heating the metal to red hot and then again to non-magnetic the results where the same. It eats cutting blades and drill bits. This stuff is murder.

Perhaps my approach to tame this steel is wrong and if so I'd like it pointed out to me. I've messed with old files a couple of times. Throw it in the fire to anneal it, shape, heat and quench, polish and heat treat. Apparently that process is not what works on this planner steel.

Ideas?

Rusty

[Lin Rhea]

A lot of planer blades are D2, which is an air hardening steel. When you heat it to red hot, it will just harden up again as it cools in the air. I would choose a common spring steel and make life a lot easier. Lin

[Tater John]

Thanks Lin,

In the process of destroying drill bits, cutoff wheels and sandpaper I created what I was after. After getting the shape, bevel and it sharpened its typical wicked sharp of H.S.S. Another question though is did I harm the integrity of the steel with the heat I put to it?

 
 

Before I spend time finishing the blank out and adding scales I would rightly be disappointed if the edge chips and breaks, which I'm afraid is going to happen

Rusty

[sticshooter]

yep it sure does. I made 2 knivs from them. Ya heat it up and let it cool SLOW. I leave it in the forge till cool (overnight. Colbalt drill bit and that should do ya. But i will say i have not made anymore from them. now i don't know if it was D2? But Lin knows a whole lot more then i do about metals.here's a pic of one of them.It was a BIG heavy knife.<><
   

[Tater John]

Thats a neat blade, I'd like a throwin' knife like that... what did you do sticshooter to temper the blade after it was shaped out? Are you running a coal forge, burying the blade after getting it to temperature and letting the forge burn out? Kind of bass ackwards on the question, but any help I can get I'll take. I have another piece of blade 2X15X5/32 and a piece of drop from the other. I want to save what I've start though for now

Rusty

[Lin Rhea]

I dont really know if it's D2, but it just sounds like it is acting like an air hardening steel. I know a lot of planer blades are D2, so I just figure it is.

Sticshooter, you got it. Like you said, one can anneal it by heating it to critical and stick it in a bucket of lime or wood ashes overnight to cool real slow.. Then do most of the grinding and finishing and gently heat it back to critical and let cool in calm air. It will be hard and may need drawn back in an oven. I am no athority on D2, so I dont know about the draw back temps or length. If you get it right, it will be a good blade. Lin

[Tater John]

Thank you guys for the tips...I have a better idea of where to be starting from and how to get to the end result I want    

Rusty

[sticshooter]

I heat it in a propane forge and let it sit in there and cover the entraces with bricks. I heated like i dod my saw blades and it got HARD. baked it at 400 for 2 hrs. then 400 at 350. Guy that has it loves it and uses it for everything LOL<><<><