Maple burl question

[Cody D Works]

I have a block of maple Burl does it need to be stabilized before turning it into scales?

[Lin Rhea]

Depends. If you're going to stain it, you'll need to do that first. After you stabilize it it wont take the stain.

Also, are you putting the scales on a full tang knife handle?

[Cody D Works]

No I don't plan on staining it. And yes on a full tang knife I have yet to tackle a hidden tang knife

[Cody D Works]

Thank you btw.

[stickytoes]

what does it mean to stabilize wood? and how is it done? if you don't mind me asking

[Lin Rhea]

It means that polyurethane or some other stabilizing substance is drawn into the piece by vacuum. This can be done in block form or after it is split, but I see that often the scales will warp when curing and you'll have to flatten them again. The vacuum method is best, but some will soak it in a thin stabilizer after the scales are 95 percent shaped, effectively creating a layer in the outer depths of the piece.

Ideally I want stabilized wood in block form and I will split it after the stabilization.

[Scott Roush]

Lin... when you say it depends.. what do you mean? Do you just mean depending on whether you want to stain or not? I've been using big blocks of big leaf maple burl that I buy from Woodcraft (which I can sometime get an 8x8 cube for $35 to $50 in the store).  I haven't been stabilizing them but I'm considering to send the next block out. But I didn't think of the staining issue as I like to stain sometimes....

[Lin Rhea]

Yes, it wont take stain after the stabilizing. Maple is often inlayed with silver wire and the stabilization will interfer somewhat with that too. So when it comes to Maple, it all depends on what your plan is. You' find that some maker use Maple that is inlayed and stained alot while some avoid it altogether. The ones who have the procedure down and get good results will offer it on a regular basis.

Some of the places that stabilize will sometimes add stain to the process too.

[Scott Roush]

If it were you, would you send out those big blocks I get?  I'm just asking because I use it a lot and I want to make sure I'm not going to have problems down the road.  I'm also learning it's easier to get a nicer finish on the stabilized stuff....

Sorry if I'm taking over this thread Cody... but I've recently been wondering the same thing...

[Lin Rhea]

Sure. If you know what you're getting ahead of time. I would cut it up into knife size peices first.

[Cody D Works]

Ok here is my scenario, got a block of maple burl the only tool i have to cut scales out with is a coping saw. that being said leave it in block form and send it out to stabilize it? Before putting it on a knife?

[Lin Rhea]

Cody, you'll have to ask the stabilizing people that. I can only recommend cutting it up. Lin

[Kevin Evans]

I recently had some stabilized ,I recomend not only getting into small blocks(or slabs),but also recomend going farther and getting somewhat the shape of the handle.
It is stabilized by wieght and usually doubles in wieght with the substance they use.Its less exspencive if its small and also saves on shipping.
Cody you might want to consider dark pieces(of wood) as you start out ,sometimes it is very hard to get lighter colored wood to keep from showing shadows around the pins.

[Cody D Works]

okie dokie!