Best Metal for Skinner / Deboner knife?

[Talondale]

In your opinion what would be the best metal for a knife that will be used mostly to skin and debone large game?  No hacking bone or wood.  Considerations are durability, ease of sharpening, holding an edge.
Thanks

[kbaknife]

"Jesus Christ, Himself, could send a bar of steel down from Heaven.
It will only be as good as the heat treatment it gets on Earth."

In other words, there is a long list of steels that will perform the tasks you have in mind, but only so long as the maker KNOWS that steel and how best to heat treat it.

It's not so much a matter of what the best steel is, but who knows how to best create the knife using THAT steel by doing what is necessary for THAT steel.

A mediocre, border line, "nothing special" steel, properly heat treated, will beat the designer, high-tech, expensive alloy steel, improperly done, hands down every time.

[njloco]

Sorry to chime in here, but I was just thumbing through and saw this question, that is a real eye opening response for a laymen, good information to know.

Thanks kbaknife.

[Talondale]

I understand your reply Mr Anderson.  Let me make my request a little more narrow in scope.  I'm looking at buying a knife blank to make my own knife.  Nothing special order, nothing custom made.  So considering what I would assume is mass production standards what type of steel would be best?  I've had some retail SS bladed knives that have a finish that never tarnishes but it's a burden to get an edge on it.  Looks good but I'm not going to carry a sharpening kit of multiple stones out into the field.

[Stumpkiller]

I love it.  This ought to bring 'em out like asking "What's the best mechanical broadhead?"

I'm going to toss out 1095 as my favorite in a fixed blade.  About the dopiest steel in the world with three simple ingredients: 0.95% carbon (relatively high), 0.4% manganese and the rest iron.

Treated to 58 or 59 Rc it takes a fine edge, holds it and, as long as you keep it oiled and rust free, will give long service. IF you treat it properly and sharpen it carefully on good stones (not spit on a fieldstone and grind away).

For a folder/pocket knife I like 154CM (same as ATS-34).  Easy to keep stain free and can be made light and thin with astounding strength.  But if it is 60 Rc like mine woe be unto you when it eventually needs sharpening.  My two favorite folders are in this steel and both easliy field dress a deer and still pop hair.

[Talondale]

LOL, I know Stumpkiller.  I don't want to step on any toes and although I understand there's an ideal there's a couple reasons I'm limiting my selection to non-custom knives.  1) Budget - Planning a trip to CO this fall and money is committed to other things 2) I lose things - hence my looking for a new knife.  I can't stand the thought of losing a nice knife like what I see on here, especially if I can't afford to replace it.  3) it will be fun to shape my own handle and have a portion of it's creation.  
I'm looking at texasknife.com but I'm open to other suggestions.  I just don't want to buy a junk blank.  Thanks for your input Stumpkiller, fixed blade btw. This one to be specific.
 http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=119_299_393&products_id=777

[Stumpkiller]

The flat out best inexpensive knife I own or have seen compared is a Norwegian laminated steel blank, a piece of 1/4" brass (a genaric guard casting I filed down), two iron finishing nails (I drilled the tang for the two pin holes with a carbide burr), a dollop of epoxy with wood dust filler and a piece of red deer antler.  I made this knife for $18 in parts in about 1982 and it has served me like no other.  It has been in about 25 deer over the years and worked through fish, fowl and carrots around countless campfires.  I own 30+ knives and this is on my belt when I bowhunt deer.

   

I bought the parts from Dixie Gun Works.  Crazy Crow still lists a blank - called the "Badger".  Price has gone up a bit, though.

   http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=5429-010-400&Category_Code=841-200-020  


BUT . . . I like the looks of the Texas one you show above very much.  Cheaper, too.

[mater]

If you buy the metal, they will give you the instuctions on how to heat treat and temper. Its not hard, just do it.    Mark

[Bryan Bondurant]

Metal includes Aluminum, Copper, Brass, so the correct term for a blade is Steel. Not being a smart pants but just pointing that out for readers so you can sound cool if you talk to people in the business.

For Trad I believe a high carbon fixed blade will be the best fit. I would think a 1 inch wide drop point hunter with 4 inches of blade and some kind of guard would be the best overall workhorse. The blade pictured made from a kit is a bit pointy still falls into that general range.

If your interested in forging your own blade its easier than ever to learn now as more ABS classes have become available all the way up to Maine. There are also multiple websites like Knifekits.com and bladesmith supply companies you can mix and match and or get a kit from. If you need any help finding a kit or a class just ask.

 Most of the kits already have a heat treated blade but you should ask and make sure as to what you're getting.

[kbaknife]

Originally posted by Bryan Bondurant:
Metal includes Aluminum, Copper, Brass, so the correct term for a blade is Steel.

Thank you!

[Lovec]

http://www.ragweedforge.com/BladeCatalog.html#f-blades

I had the Frosts-Mora KBH-3  halfway down the page.  I used it as a hunting/camp knife.  It did everything I asked and stayed sharp.  Somebody broke into my car and stole it.

[Talondale]

Originally posted by Bryan Bondurant:
Metal includes Aluminum, Copper, Brass, so the correct term for a blade is Steel. Not being a smart pants but just pointing that out for readers so you can sound cool if you talk to people in the business.

LOL, what's funny is I chose the term metal because I didn't want to say steel and have someone point out a technicality that iron isn't steel, or there's alloys etc.

Thanks for all your suggestions.  I'll take a look at them.

EDIT: Like those Frosts and they look like a solid tang rather then half a tang with all-thread welded on.  Laminate or non-laminated?