My first try at clay coating and hamon

[oldpaths]

I have always admired the hamon line effect that I see on some of the knives that are posted by some of you fellars and I think it is just neat to be able to visually see the metalurgical difference between the hardened cutting edge and the not so hard spine,so I thought I would give it a try......
Now I know I still have alot of room for improvement and always will as long as I pursue this addiction but I am pleased with the results (especially for first try).
My observations for this attempt have proven to me that the clay coating,heating,quenching,tempering,etching,etc....to make the blade with differential hardness are pretty much the same as I always do and the easiest part of the process "to me",but the buffing and polishing to leave the hamon showing the way I want it to show seems to be the part I need to work on.
If anybody has any tips or tricks that would help a hillbilly out I'd sure like ya to post em up.
The front knife is a nicholson file that a preacher friend of mine gave me a bucket full of em and said he had me some more if I wanted them? (Talk about a silly question!)     I think I'll give him this one as a show of appreciation.
the one in the back is from a huge sawmill blade and both have stabilized buckeye burl handles and vine file work.
Thank's for look'n and I'll be checking back to see if anybody can tell me what I'm doing or not doing right.
God bless ya,Oldpaths

 

Stand ye in the ways, and see, and ask for the old paths, where is the good way, and walk therein, and ye shall find rest for your souls.

[akaboomer]

Oldpaths, perhaps you could get us a couple close up pics of the Hamon? I have been working on this same thing myself and have learned a good bit from others, via the internet, that are very good at producing the Hamon.

I have only brought out the Hamon in one I am working on now so the little experience I have is not a definitive how to.

I like the visual effect of the Hamon myself so pics please.

Chris

[oldpaths]

I will take a close up pic tomorrow evening and post for ya.

[akaboomer]

Sent a link in PM

Chris

[Steve Nuckels]

Those Temper lines are very difficult to capture in a photo!

To really get the best results it is very labor intensive doing the hand rubbed finish!

Those are very nice knives!

Steve
--------
Potomac Forge
ABS Apprentice

[kbaknife]

An actual hamon will show up quite vividly in shallow hardening steel, 1095, W1, W2.
The saw mill steel will more than likely be something like L6 or 15N20, neither of which are shallow hardening.
The file blade should do well if the heat treating was done right.
Remember, no matter how much time you put into sanding and etching and polishing, etc., you can't display what's not there.

[oldpaths]

Not a very good pic but the best I seem to be able to do for a close up.
After checking out AKA's link I have already seen where I can put forth some more effort and get better results.My next try will be better.
 

[Ragnarok Forge]

A mirror finish does not shot a hamon.  You have to take the blade to a mirror finish and then etch and buff with vinegar or lemon juice to bring out a hamon.  Do some web search work and you will find a lot of tutorials.  How many you find will depend on how stong your google fu is at the moment.

[gables]

Try this thread on the ABS forum.

 http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/429-hamons-topic-for-november-2011/

[oldpaths]

Thank you fellas,for the info and I am understanding better now where I have went wrong and I know that I did achieve a real good differentially hardened blade on the above knives and also that they do have a hamon exactly where I clay coated them.My mistake was after etching by attempting to polish the hardened area and the clay coated area separately,I see now that I have my work cut out for me to get anywhere close to what I have been admiring on some of the fine knives around here.I will be back with another and it will be better.
thanks for all the help,Oldpaths

[Lamey]

etch more polish less,  and do your polishing by hand, not with a buffer.  

IF the hamon is initially there,  you can simply take it to a 400 grit hand sanded, clean finish.   Etch in FC,  I usually do at least 3 cycles of 1 minute per cycle, rubbing off the "black" between each cycle with paper towels.

After the etch,  I wash with the blade really well with windex/water,  using paper towells to get as much black off as I can.

Then with an iron oxide, or any mild abrasive "slurry" mix I start hand polishing,   usually takes 30 minutes or so of going over the blade with polish "slurry".

There are alot more elaborate ways,  you can spend days hand polishing to 2000 grit, use finger stones etc...  BUT for a good user grade finish,   you can do what I have outlined above and get great results...  THe key is getting the hamon there to start with.
 

[akaboomer]

The process of clay coating before hardening is to achieve differential hardening. That's the affect you achieved. The active Hamon is the effect that can be achieved by different etching and polishing methods. That effect is not an easy thing to achieve and has many variables involved.

I have clay coated three and have "brought out" Hamon in one. The two that were not etched and polish didn't show the hardening line as I wanted it were quenched in ATF. They hardened the way I wanted but the line didn't show the way it could have.  The one that shows the way I hoped was quenched in Parks 50. I had no intention of developing the Hamon in the ones quenched in ATF because the were intended for field use.

This is my summery of the cause, affect and effect of clay coating and hardening, the way I understand it.

Chris

[akaboomer]

Lamey, thanks for elaborating your process. What is the proportion of FC to water you use?  Your Hamon looks great. I have to say that's one great looking knife with very nice Hamon.

Chris

[oldpaths]

Beautiful Lamey,thats what I'm talk'n bout right there!!!,I appreciate the advice

[Steve Nuckels]

Wow Matt, can't even argue with results like that!  Thanks for your input!

One of my favorite makers!

Steve
-------
Potomac Forge
ABS Apprentice

[oldpaths]

[Lamey]

howdy,  thanks for the kind words,   I really dont measure the water to FC mix, im guessing im about 2/3 FC 1/3 water,  i just kind of eyeball it.

Another very important factor is how you apply the clay to achieve the look you want,  basically do some experimenting with how far down and how thick you run your clay lines,  its fun seeing what surprises you come up with.

this one shows the actual "color" a bit more,  this blade was taken to 400,  etched,  then polished,  a quick job that holds up well under use and still looks good etc....  
 

[akaboomer]

Another great knife Matt. I enjoy seeing your work. I for one would love to see more. What steel are you using for your knives with Hamon?  Thanks for the input.

Chris