Sanding blades

[Lin Rhea]

I would like to see some of the backing sticks that you use to hand sand a blade. As you show them, please tell why you chose this design or material and what effect it has on the finish.

I'll start. This is my all around flat stick. It's about 1 1/2 inch wide X 1/2 inch thick and 8 inches long. It's bosdarc with two radiused edges. The small circles are on the back showing at a glance the radi on that far side edge. This stick is for crisp edges and flattening the blade. I use it more than anything else but switch to a softer one for the smooth finish.
   

This tools allows me to reach in the plunges and around the guard if I need to. The sides and end is beveled so the sand paper gets all the way in there.
   

These are my finishing sticks. I have 3 basic sises from 1 1/2 inch wide to just bigger than popcicle stick. These impart a much smoother finish and serves to blend the satin pattern. The leather is just soft enough to push the sand paper around any convexities and curves.  
   

[DANA HOLMAN]

Lin, nice subject, I use about the same type of sanding sticks with the leather on them. Question I have is do you glue your sand paper on the leather or on a flat stick? I have tried both and I use a spray glue to glue the sand paper on BUT it always comes off due to me using wd40 to sand with, so do you have this problem or what do you do different, I endup holding the paper on the stick. Something is wrong on my end. Thanks for any answers

[Lin Rhea]

I hold it on too. I got used to that and it's just easier now.

[ksbowman]

What grit do you start with and then progress to?

[kansas stik man]

no need to take a picture but i dont use wood at all for my sanding.  i use different sized files the same way you use the wood though. seems to work fine for me and makes them multi purpose to cut down on tools required in the garage.  i also use my belt sander for making sure both sides of the blade are nice and flat.  its kinda tricky but i worked out a method and works for me.

[Sacred mt]

I use double sided tape on my pushstick...

[Lin Rhea]

Jerold,
       I keep and use everything from 180-1000 (or higher) grit depending on what the need is. I grind some blades better so I might start with 220, but if a blade has a ripple or deeper scratches, I will start with 180. It dont take long to get things flat and smooth if you just start with the right grit.

[Doug Campbell]

I love these kind of threads, kinda like getting to go visit a buddy's shop and see how he does things.      

The first couple items are made of 3/4" wide micarta for its hardness, for when I don't want any "give".
This one I typically will run lengthwise or diagonal on the blade to ensure there are no low spots. I typically cut a strip of sandpaper and secure one end in the slot on either end then hold the other end.    

This one has a little different radius I on each corner and beveled to a sharp edge on one end. Mostly used on plunges, corners and such.    
   

Finally this block is made of hard rubber, I'd guess 75ish durometer, I made it from a trailer floormat. This is the one I typically do most of my finishing with for the "softer" finish Lin mentioned.
   
I cut my paper into 1"ish wide strips for this sanding "stick" then hold lengthwise and flush on the beveled edge then draw toward myself.

[Lin Rhea]

Good stuff guys.

I forgot to mention that I also use files for a backing when I think I can get away with it and have to bear down on it. I use a small file with a safe edge to get into squarish corners. The last thing I want to do is scar one side and have to step back in grit.

It is entirely possible that I may make a new backing stick for a special project. It's just part of the necessary things one has to be prepared for and not be locked into a method.

A seperate subject but closely related is lighting. The right lighting helps you know what backing stick to use. It keeps you from going to the soft stick too soon. It's all part of a working system that produces a better, or at least better looking knife.

[kuch]

Ever  use different grit stones ? I tried them on o couple of blades but felt I got a better result with paper. Do you guys use any liquid when you sand ? water or cutting oil?

[Doug Campbell]

I do have 1/4X1/2X6"EDM stones in 240, 320, & 600grits that are very handy for some things. They can be ground to any shape your need.

I've used water and WD40 mostly but have recently picked up a machining coolant called Koolmist that my buddy Jon Christensen recommended but haven't had the chance to use it yet. No stink, and who knows what else, like WD40 and won't rust carbon steel like water...

[Ray Hammond]

great to see the different ways to do the same thing- no ONE way to skin the cat. I like the looks of those micarta ones Doug.

Im guessing when you use the first one you quickly pick up on any low spots on the blade in the right light.

[Lin Rhea]

Yes Ray. Changing the direction of sanding will show the low spots. When you see it getting an even coverage, you can change the grit to finer, then to a smoothing stick.

[Doug Campbell]

The thing I like about the top sanding block is when used lengthwise on a flat gound blade it spreads out the contact over a long area. When everything is "clean" with it there is no doubt the sanded surface is perfectly flat.

[Pete Crowl]

Double post, sorry   :p

[Pete Crowl]

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Here is most of what I use to finish my knives.  There is a half round file and a rat tail file included.  Both were dipped in that rubber handle dip.

 I use feathering compound on the sticks.  Karl A. told me about it.  The long sticks are 1x1. One of them has 2 edges that have a small radius.

A stick with leather on it for the final finishing.

Dollar store spray cleaner works well while sanding.  

This is a cool thread Lin  

[Schmidtster]

Looks like I have some tools to make! Do you guys do most of your sanding before or after heat treating? I'm working on my first file knife and am to the point where I either sand some more or heat it!!

[gables]

I cut all my 9x12 sanding sheets into three 3"x12" strips. For the bulk of my sanding I use a solid 1.5"x1.5"x12" aluminum bar. I fold my 3" wide strip in half for the aluminum block. I also use a micarta block- particularly when hand sanding the ricasso. My final passes and small areas are sanded with a file backer. I put leather on one side of the file and Plasti Dip on the exposed metal of the file to prevent scratching. I also use a ground glass plate with sandpaper glued to it for sanding the ricasso flats with each grit before moving to the aluminum bar.

[madness522]

Here are my sanding sticks.
 

One to sand the plunge cuts the paper is Mirka gold self adhesive. This one was a combo at one time but made another one to replace it since the poundo board was coming loose.
 

Main flat sanding stick made out of mircata. Two of the corners have different radiused differently.
 

Another one made of mircata with poundo board attached used with higher grits.
 

This one is just poundo board I use as the last step.
 

[jonathan creason]

Thanks for this thread, guys.  The finish work is an area that I REALLY need to devote some time and energy to.  Looks like I've got a few tools to make.