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Author Topic: Tell me about your electro etchers...  (Read 1090 times)

Offline tomsm44

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 1340
Re: Tell me about your electro etchers...
« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2012, 11:56:00 AM »
Has anybody used the durafilm stencils that etchomatic sells?  I think I can build the UV exposure unit a lot cheaper than the kit they sell and just buy the stencil material and stencil developer.  Just curious, will these stencils work with saltwater, or will I have to use a stronger electrolyte like they sell?  I haven't checked with a sign maker yet.  I may be better off just getting a sheet of stencils made.
Matt Toms

Flatwoods Custom R/D:  64", 47@28
'66 Kodiak: 60", 55@28
Redwing Hunter:  58", 53@28
Ben Pearson 709 Hunter:  58", 47@28
Ben Pearson 709 Hunter:  58", 42@28
Hoots Recurve:  56", 42@28

Offline Bladepeek

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  • Posts: 3318
Re: Tell me about your electro etchers...
« Reply #21 on: August 17, 2012, 07:27:00 AM »
I tried the method outlined by Bob Loveless. Had to go to a different company for the chemicals. I don't know if my problem was a too-weak UV light, or having 2 left hands, or just being stupid, but I got only 25% success. Talked with a knifemaker in PA who used the method with total satisfaction and bought a different developer. Exchanged quite a few e-mails trying to get my process right. Wound up with a gallon or more of various photo chemicals and never did achieve even 50% success.

Went back to the electro-stencil etch and, other than when I tried to stretch a stencil past its limit as Lin said, I've had 100% success.

Got my latest stencils from Ernie Grospitch and they do last longer than the flimsies I bought years ago.

Ernie also passed on a tip: when marking damascus, etch the mark on the polished blade. Then paint the mark with finger nail polish. Let the nail polish cure really hard (UV will speed this up somewhat. Rub the nail polish off the blade surface with the same grit you used for the pre-etch polish, backed with a hard block so you don't get down into the mark. Then do your damascus etch. The marks stays sharp and protected. Take the nail polish off with acetone as a final step.
60" Bear Super K LH 40#@28
69" Matt Meacham LH 42@28
66" Swift Wing LH 35@28
54" Java Man Elk Heart LH 43@28
62"/58" RER LXR LH 44/40@28

Offline milehi101

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 133
Re: Tell me about your electro etchers...
« Reply #22 on: September 10, 2012, 04:40:00 PM »
I made mine from a how to article listed on Chris Crawford's knife site.  All the items are found at Radio Shack to build the power supply.  Their is a how to assemble and a list of parts with Radio Shacks part #'s included at the site.  Mine works very well and has the option of a clean metal etch or a dark etch.  It is just a matter of flipping a switch and holding the etching pad on the stencil. I got my stencils from Ernies Knives in Florida.  I used up several of the stencils before I got consistent results but now I love it.  I try to etch mine after the blade is done and before it is assembled.  It has worked good for me.

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