Gidgee Hunter

[kbaknife]

This guy sent his own piece of Gidgee from Australia for me to use on his knife.
I wish a had a whole box of this stuff.

The blade is W2 and the take-down fittings are stainless.

I like it when W1 or W2 sort of "sneak" in their own little bits of hamon quite unexpectedly. There are at least 6 pieces of hamon on this side that were a complete surprise.

 

[Lamey]

my favourite so far, i think i say that about every hunter you build.

[akaboomer]

Very nice Karl. I like the sneaky Hamon:) the Gidgee is on my want to try list and you made both look great. Thanks for sharing.

Chris

[Lin Rhea]

Gidgee is one of my favorites. It works so well and is gorgeous. I like your knife Karl.

[srtben]

That looks great Karl! How thick do you usually put your clay down?

[Bodork]

That looks great!  Everything about it!

[4est trekker]

'Member what Crocodile Dundee said to the mugger who pulled a knife on him?  "That's not a knife...[drawing his own knife]...THAT'S a knife."

Hey, Karl...THAT'S a knife!       Great work from top to bottom.  Never hear of gidgee before, but there are a few absolutely gorgeous wood species in Australia.

[kbaknife]

Ben, I only put little strips of clay - running up and down - where the dips/points are in the hamon.
And this was done with a sharpened popsicle stick.
So, not very thick.

 

Originally posted by srtben:
That looks great Karl! How thick do you usually put your clay down?

[tomsm44]

Never heard of Gidgee before, but it looks great.  That hamon looks awesome.  I've been planning to try one, but haven't gotten around to it yet.  I've been working on several 1084 knives, but I've read that 1084 isn't a good choice for hamons.  I have a couple of 1095 blades started that I may try it on if I ever get around to finishing them.  Just out of curiosity, what steel would you recommend for someone who's never done a hamon before?  Something that's simple to heat treat and not too difficult when differentially hardening.  Also, am I crazy, or does it seem like there is a noticable difference in the appearance of a hamon on 1095 and one on W2.  It seems like most of the W2 hamons I've seen you guys post have a little different look than the 1095 ones I've seen.  Maybe I'm wrong and its just a difference in techniques used, but it seems like I've noticed a pattern there.

[kbaknife]

If you want to try to get a hamon, then you'd best use a steel that will result in one in the first place - W1 or W2.
The crisp, finite delineation between the hard and soft areas are determined by how quickly the steel will slip past that pearlite window and go from austenite almost directly to creating martensite.
The more alloy in the steel, the slower the steel can do this and it allows a slight bit of mid-range 'zones' to get created and this makes the non-distinct sort of foggy areas show up like you mention in 1095.
I hope that makes sense.
In other knife circles, Don Hanson is someone who has made a great reputation from his hamon "abilities".
I've managed to make good freinds with Don.
When I started down this path and ask him about hamons, he said, "Ya' gotta play with it".
I thought he was yankin' my chain.
Now, about 5-6 years later, I realize he was not.
There are so many variables involved, that when any one of them is not  treated correctly, it can ruin all your hopes.
How is your steel set up after forging and grinding?
What steel is it?
What are you using for clay?
How much clay?
What are you using to austenize your steel?
Forge or oven?
At what temp?
For how long?
How thick is your steel - both spine and cutting edge?
What's your quenchant?
What's the temperature of your quenchant?
Tank of 5 gallons or more - or tube?

People frequently want to know about the CLAY!! like, the clay did it all, and that's not even close.
ALL! of the ingredients of the recipe need to be in place. You can do your clay 'perfectly' but if you haven't treated the steel right up to this point, or you didn't get the blade austenized correctly with the right amount of heat, either too hot nor too cool, or your steel was too thick or too thin, or the quenchant was too cool or too hot or not fast enough for the steel type, or, on and on and on, then it doesn't make any difference about the clay.
Your hamon will be screwed up.

Any one of those ingredients too high or too low or too long can change how all of the others act upon the steel.
Get some W1 or W2, grind out a blade and have at it!  

   

Originally posted by tomsm44:
[QB] Just out of curiosity, what steel would you recommend for someone who's never done a hamon before?  Something that's simple to heat treat and not too difficult when differentially hardening.  Also, am I crazy, or does it seem like there is a noticable difference in the appearance of a hamon on 1095 and one on W2./QB]

[tomsm44]

Thanks karl.  I think I'll get me some W2.  As far as "playing with it", that's my favorite way to learn so I'll definitely take Mr. Hanson's advice there.  I appreciate the pictures and the advice you are always so willing to give.