I recently had the rare privilege of taking a tools making class under (arguably) the best historic blacksmith in the country, Peter Ross. The class was a little unique in that the tools we were to make are so often not thought of as being forged, especially the compass. We made framing chisels and compasses, the kind you use for layout, circles, dividing, etc.
The chisel is obviously a cutting tool, which offers a segway into this forum, even though its a stretch, I'll admit. I just thought you might want to hear a little about the class.
First, the students were all advanced on the subject of blacksmithing and there were 7, which is a good number for individual attention from the instructor. All were accomplished at one thing or another, one being a lawyer, one a trig teacher, one a machinist, and oddly enough some sure nuff blacksmiths.
By the end of the class, I figured out that what we were learning as far as step by step procedure, was less important, to me at least, than a philosophy behind tool making in the context of history. I cant put into words just how much it impacted my thinking. I found it to be very closely related to the traditional mindset behind the type of hunting most of us do.
I better not get off into philosophy or I'll be over my head real soon, so I'll show a few pictures. I might mention that the chisel is made from wrought iron with a welded steel bit. The compass/divider is mild steel, but could be made of wrought with welded tips. Use of the wrought gave us insight to the unique character of the material when drawing it under the hammer in different ways.
This picture is of the socket being shaped.
Now the flare is starting be shaped into the cone for the socket.
Now the weld is made where the sides lap just a little. This is done over a mandrel, which we had to make. This one in the photos was made by the instructor, but I took a picture of the one I made to complete the series. I cant take pictures of myself while working so this will have to do. You can look closely at the chisel bevel and see the steel bit layer where it meets the wrought material. The bit travels back about 3 inches to give the tool a long life.
A wooden plug is tapered and driven into the socket providing some length and some buffer for striking with a mallet.
I'll break this up with another post.