Question about glue on points

[mcowie]

A month ago I started shooting in an indoor league.  I made up half a dozen laminated birch arrows and I have been shooting them for four weeks now.  I did have one point come off in the bale the first time I shot them (which does happen to me occasionally).  But this evening was completely different.  I lost four points in ten minutes of practice.  I was shooting into the same bales I have shot into for the last month and my arrows had not been in and extreme weather.  I know that woven bales grab that little lip on the edge of the points but it didn't feel any harder to pull my arrows.  Anyone have an idea what went wrong or more importantly how do I make sure it doesn't happen again.  I currently use Ferr-L-Tite to glue my points on.

Thanks for the help.
Matt

[snag]

Do you clean them out first? Some alcohol on a Qtip works. Then I torch the tip and burn it out. I use hot melt wax to put them on with. That way I can take them off and on as I need to. I have never had one come off. They come kind of oily and you need to take that off. You can even take emery paper and rough the inside up and then do the alcohol to clean it out with. Hope that helps.

[mcowie]

Thanks stang for the suggestion.  I have notices a bit of oil occasionally but never thought to clean them out.    

Thanks

[Charlie Lamb]

Matt... Yep! The better you clean them the better they stick.
There's several ways to skin that cat. Here's a couple...

1. Like Snag said above use some kind of "thinner" to remove the oil.
 Field points and blunts are machined in an oil bath so there will always be residue. Broadheads are ground in oil bath to prevent burning the edge, so there will be residue in the ferrule.

I've wiped them with acetone and paper towel, let soak in rubbing alcohol or even put in a pan of boiling water with a drop of detergent.

2. Also as Snag mentioned a piece of emory cloth rolled into a small cone can be used to abrade the inside of the ferrule... and you must clean after this process.

3. A tip handed down to me when I was a boy in this sport... after cleaning thoroughly, heat the head up quite hot. Heat only the head and not the taper of the shaft.
When you press the head into place it's ferrule should be hot enough to easilly melt the ferrule cement.
Twist the head onto the taper 2 or 3 complete revolutions to spread the glue evenly then quench in "cold" water.

[Charlie Lamb]

Should have added that I don't like to burn out the residue from the point. Leaves it's own residue!

[MYSTIKBOW]

Charlie, I haven't been in this sport very long compared to most. (10yrs.)  But I was shown how to clean and glue on field points and BH's the very same way as your #3 tip. I have to say that I have NEVER had a problem with my field tips or BH's ever coming off useing that method unless I have reheated them off.

[mcowie]

Thanks Gentlemen,

Do you apply the large amounts of heat mentioned in #3 to broadheads too?  I have always been very cautious about over heating my broadheads.

[MYSTIKBOW]

No I don't use nearly as much heat when it comes to gluing on the BH's just enough to melt the glue, but the ferrule does get cleaned just as thuroghly as the points do.

[Charlie Lamb]

You can heat up the ferrule of the broadhead pretty hot but it takes localized heat so you don't change the temper of the blade.

If you get the blade hot enough to change the color of the edge, you are changing the temper.

A propane torch adjusted to a fine flame and directed right into the ferrule is probably the best method.