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Author Topic: Latest knife (#5) First with wood  (Read 879 times)

Offline 92Fspc4

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Latest knife (#5) First with wood
« on: November 29, 2015, 01:15:00 AM »
Here is a drop point hunter made from a Nicholson black diamond file with oak scales.  Started to look like an old butcher knife so I went with it.  This is my 5'th from a file.  I need a little work on the scales but it feels so good I might not bother.  Need to make a sheath and she'll be ready to hit the woods.  Any comments or criticism's are welcome.  This is a very addictive hobby.

 http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah26/richardreiser2000/006_zpsrj8hheyh.jpg
 http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah26/richardreiser2000/007_zps7cjutjzg.jpg
 http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah26/richardreiser2000/008_zpsnpe07otz.jpg?t=1448691254

Offline Lin Rhea

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Re: Latest knife (#5) First with wood
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2015, 09:11:00 AM »
Yes, it's very addictive. I would recommend that you follow your judgment and work on the scales. Not that it looks bad, but for practice. This way your eye will be always improving.

Good job. I can feel your excitement.     :campfire:
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
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Offline 92Fspc4

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Re: Latest knife (#5) First with wood
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2015, 10:13:00 AM »
Thanks Lin.

Online Gdpolk

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Re: Latest knife (#5) First with wood
« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2015, 10:37:00 PM »
I'm already seeing progress and that your getting the bug.  I sure know I'm getting sucked into it as well.  Each time you've posted another knife it's been more refined.  It's cool to watch you grow as a maker and get better with each and every new knife.

For example, the sweep on the belly of the blade on this one transitions into the flat edge much more evenly and predictable than with the sharper curves of your last blade.  Also, you've added a false guard area to keep your hand from slipping into the sharpened edge.  Both of these ideas are good and in the right direction.  

To improve on this design from here, and please take this with a grain of salt because I'm new too, I would drop the point along the spine just a bit with a SLOW, continuous curve until the drop hit at or close to the center of the handle.  Then, I would make another curved cut into the bottom of the handle to reduce height so your pinky can get around the smaller area of the handle while your larger fingers in the middle have more to grab a hold of.  Third, I would round out the back end of the handle just to knock off the sharp corners and bring a more visually balanced look and attach the handle with some pins in addition to the glue.  Lastly, I would be a little more careful upon glue up to keep the flats cleaner.  Some folks will tape their blades off prior to glue up: I've been using 30-minute epoxy and cleaning with acetone to clean out my spilled glue.  After I wipe ONCE, I throw that paper towel/Q-tip away and get another so I don't re-apply the glue trying to get it all off.  My glue lines at my handle fronts aren't perfect like this but they are very clean and good enough.

Keep on posting some more as you get them worked up.
1pc and 2pc Sarrels Sierra Mountain Longbows - both 53.5lbs @ 29"

https://www.gpolkknives.com/

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