Take down build- along - COMPLETED

[John Scifres]

Shaun,

Great job.  Thanks for sharing.

John

[JEFF B]

awesome shaun!!

[BMN]

Great job on the bow and would you look at the size of that shop!   :eek:  

Bill

[Shaun]

Off the caul. It always amazes me the way osage responds to heat.

 

It looks like there may be a bow in this piece after all

 

Oh yeah, first brace 61" NTN 63# @ 20"

 

 

[TNstickn]

Shaun, Too cool!! Awesome shop, how do you keep it so clean? I can already see my lam bow building being interupted by a selfbow. Already built a shavin horse! Now to come up with some inexpensive staves to whittle on! Great build along, Thanks-Greg

[Shaun]

Finished this one this evening. Had a little trouble with that bottom limb tip and had to pike a bit off it. Final NTN 60" -- 54# @ 28"

Did a deer leather wrap with glue for the handle finish. Glued a piece of thick leather on first for an arrow rest.

 

 

 

[Shaun]

This bow would fit right in the quiver with your arrows.

 

It takes about 1.5" of set after shooting a while and come back to about .75" string follow after resting.

 

How do you make a self bow? Just take a stave and remove everything that is not bow...

 

[DBerrard]

Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Heck of a shop too eh

[wislnwings]

Thanks for sharing this Shaun.

[Eric Krewson]

Fine tillering job and great pictures of the process. I picked up a broken V. Minor Cane Dragon from a friend that is a take down. I plan to salvage the sleeves and make a take down bow for myself.

[DCM]

Fantastic build along Shaun.

Did you consider just gluing the bottom limb to the steel sleeve?

That's how the sleeves I used years ago worked, using just one brass sleeve.  

Gives you an extra brass sleeve, which I'd be trying to conjure a use for.  Would be tempted towards two upper limbs, but then I never could answer the question of... why.

One of the things I noticed about mine was it would swell and shrink w/ the humidity.  In fact after a couple of years it was getting loose so I shimmed it with JB Weld.  I may not have had the wood completely seasoned when I started, or this may be fairly common.  I have a sleeved takedown glass bow that has gotten loose over the years as well, but two shims of butcher paper will keep it tight enough for now.

Sleeved bows are simple and convenient, add just the right amount of weight in just the right place, but it does take a little to get used to the shape.  Easy enough to build one up and shape it, although I have grown to like mine just like they are.

Great project.  Inspiring.  Thanks for posting.

[Shaun]

David, I made the bottom limb the removable one. Seems like I saw one that way and figured that's how it was supposed to be done. Direct gluing the fixed limb did occur to me but I thought there might be some reason there were two brass inserts instead of one. Ideas for a second limb... How about a spear point for tracking wounded hogs, a black (top)limb for turkey tent blinds, a hiking staff with compass top hand grip (would require a tip protector on the other end), some kind of fancy limb for shoots or foolishness.

I wandered around the local mega lumber yard the other day to see if there was some obvious combination of pipes that would fit like these handles. I did find that a small brass drain pipe fits nicely into a 1.25" piece of copper pipe, but did not want to buy a $45 10ft piece of copper to experiment with and the brass drain pipe seemed very thin, not much to work with for file fitting. Does anyone have a combination they have found that works? These take down sets cost about $40 when you add shipping.

[Widowbender]

Nice Osage Takedown...Do you need my address for shipping?   :D    :D    :D    

[BMN]

Great job Shaun! Thanks for showing us how its done. I'm going to have to give this a try.

Bill

[Pat B]

Shaun, Wingnut and Rusty did a build along for a take down handle using 1 1/4" rigid metal conduit. That stuff is easy to come by at an electrical contractor's waste bin. They recycle the odd&ends but would probably give you enough for a few handles.
   There is a build along over on PA using fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin(Ironic for PA)to make a take down sleeve that looks interesting. I still like the metal sleeve type. At least a bit more traditional.   Pat

[7eyes]

Thank you Shaun for posting this. I was contemplating retroy fitting my robertson hinge brake down. I will post another thread when I decide. It will be tricky to keep the limbs aligned. I will have to have faith in my spirit guides. And will be asking you guys a lot of questions also.

 

[Dano]

Being a retired electrician, I had thought about rigid conduit too, but that stuff has a wall thickness of 1/8", a little heavy, and it's galvanized which I wouldn't think would slide apart too well after long. There's a good reason they charge so much for the take down sleeves, THEY CAN  

[Shaun]

Troy, I bet you can do it. Just take your time and figure out how to keep it lined up properly. I would bet fitting the ends while the brass was in the pipe handle or an alignment jig. Take some pictures and let us know how it works out.

[Pluck Yew]

Shaun, Thanks for the post...I have two scraps of osage that will work fine for a take down...

Shawn...

[Cody Cantrell]

Great job Shaun, you made it look easy.  I have built a takedown with the fibergalss cloth and epoxy and it worked very well.  It is the same takedown system that Blackwidow uses.  Again, good job Shaun.