Smooth On and No Heat

[recurve guy387]

Just wondering if anyone out there has put up a laminated bow - used Smooth On and just left it cure on its own with no heat. What was your outcome? Thanks.

[Art B]

My friend glued up a hickory backed purple heart like that. He brought it over to me to tiller out for him. Guess who got whacked when the epoxy let go?    

[Jeremy]

I glued up a hickory backed maple bow a few years ago with no problems (other than my tillering job).  Look at the Smooth-on website for their actual data and recommendations.  If you want improved heat resistance, increase your ratio of A:B closer to 2:1

[RAU]

I glued up a glass straight limb lonbow and had no problems at all. I just didnt take it off the form for 3 days or so. Ive heard others say its not absolutely necesary to cure with heat, heat just cures it alot faster. I did do the glue up in the middle of the summer when it was real warm out tho. Im panning on doing another one soon and again dont plan on using heat, I just wont be in any hurry to take it off the form

[Holm-Made]

Even if you get the temp up to 110 degrees it will cure in a few hours.  Throw a tarp over a couple saw horses and put a space heater or heat lamp under there.  Try to position it so it heats evenly.  Once the glue boogers that squeeze out the side are good and hard cut the heat but I'd leave it in the form for several more hours before releasing the pressure.  Chad

[Apex Predator]

What Chad said.

[recurve guy387]

Thanks for all the info. I have an oven for take downs but not for long bows. I like the tarp idea and will try it. I only live 8 miles from the Smooth On factory and am going to take a ride down there to get more info. Will keep you posted. Thanks much. Dale

[CLOVIS]

I have never built a bow without heating it. Riser glue ups 120 degrees max. for 2 to 3 hrs.. Limbs or full lgth. bow 160 to 180 degrees for 4 hours then let cool for 4 hrs it the box. I have not had a bow fail using this method and hope I never do. Built my first bow in 1973 with this method and it still shoots today. Back then fiberglass came in colors of black, white, brown and green. No clear, and it had a peal off backing with a weave under it and I used Urac 185 as a glue. Urac in not sutable for gluing up limbs without the weave type glass. Urac is a great glue for wood to wood but not if you use glass or micarta in the riser for accent stripes. Just my 2 cents worth.