Osage stave problems (pics added)

[razorback]

Ok. I have it reduced to the back ring I want to use but may have to go down one more ring. Also some other cracks and checks that have me worried.

Checks in the back of the bow
 

Crack that goes into the fades and handle area
 


Crack that is one ring below the ring I wanted for the back
 

[DCM]

The check in the back should not be an issue.  Warm the stave thoroughly then let thin super glue soak down into it.  Capillary action combined with the warmth thinned glue will suck the glue down to the bottom of the check.  

Similar remedy on the one in the fade/handle.  More than likely, based solely upon what I can see and surmise, it will not be an issue.  But to be honest I can't really "see" the feature in proper context from the pics.  Sometimes here's not substitute for actually being able to handle the stave oneself.

Most osage bows can be 3/4" (wide) x 1 1/2" (deep) at the arrow pass with no problem.  I like at least 5/8" in the fade but you can get away with a lot here too, including a little bit of movement.  Also bear in mind with decent osage 1 1/2" of width will make darn near as much bow as you please, 60#+ anyway.  And one need not necessarily achieve that max width abruptly, rather as far out at 6", 7" beyond the arrow pass depending upon the overall design and tiller.  So, if you can envision, the width profile could be 3/4" at the arrow pass straight taper to 1 1/2" (or less) at 7" out into the limbs.  

I'd base my choice about chasing another ring on other potential issues, like what this ring looks like versus the next, the whole bow taken into account, etc.

Sorry if I'm volunteering too much.  Haven't read the whole thread, and you may be more experienced than I give credit.

[John Scifres]

Can't see anything on the first pic.

The second pic should not be a problem but you might want to leave it kinda stiff there.

The third pic is in the handle, correct?  It looks like it is just to the right of the area in the second pic.  As long as an area doesn't bend, the cracks won't be a problem.  It also looks like you have jumped up a ring there.  The area to the right looks like it is one ring.  I'd say that crack is the same ring you have chased to the right.

[razorback]

John.
The extra wood is a couple of rings on top of a knot. Thought it best to leave the extra wood and deal with it later. The crack is one ring below the back and is in the handle. My worry is that it might migrate along the ring into the working part of the bow.

[John Scifres]

I'd be surprised if it migrated that far especially if it isn't bending.  I'd ignore it for the most part.

[razorback]

thanks guys, I am liking the way this advise is going. I will put thinned superglue in the cracks and work as if they were not there. By the way how do you thin superglue. I see many references to this but don't see anyway to do it and once thinned how do you apply it in the most effective fashion.

DCM, don't worry about giving me not enough credit. in tyhe bow building ranks my "credit" is about as good as a big banks at the moment. This is the first stave I have worked with. I have done 1 board bow that went bang and a sapling that has so much string follow it looks more like a boomerang when unstrung than a bow.