Author Topic: lowering draw weight on a recurve  (Read 1094 times)

Offline rthook21

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lowering draw weight on a recurve
« on: January 30, 2009, 09:52:00 AM »
I'm just starting out shooting traditional and funds are kinda tight, I have an old Ben Pearson recurve that I picked up cheap and have successfuly fixed the lower limb twist using the hot water method. My question is can I reduce the draw weight by taking a little off the sides of the limbs like long bows?
Any ideas?
Thanks  :knothead:

Offline Apex Predator

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2009, 12:46:00 PM »
Yes, but it would be very easy to botch the job.  How many pounds are we talking?
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Offline rthook21

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2009, 01:24:00 PM »
Only talking 5-7# its a cheap bow, I just want to be able to work on my form more comfortably, I'm a lefty so finding a good low poundage bow is hard.
Thanks

Offline Jerry Gille

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2009, 02:44:00 PM »
I've done it for the weight range you are talking about.  Tape the back off and draw a good accurate center line from which to work.  Map your back off in inch or half inch increments and start removing material evenly from side to side and limb to limb.  You need to pay attention to keeping the tiller where it was at, so you may have to do a little adjusting here and there.

Just go slow and don't take too much off.  Keep it all even and you'll be fine.

Offline Apex Predator

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2009, 04:52:00 PM »
I would draw two lines on each limb about 1/8" from each edge and work to the line.
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Offline Greg Szalewski

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2009, 10:26:00 PM »
I did this to one of my bows. Being a toomaker I just naturally tend to relate things like that to precise numbers. I marked the limbs at 1 inch increments and then recorded each measurement before I started with a dial caliper. Then I could take off exactly what I wanted(.015 per side for instance) and could keep it uniform by sanding a little and constantly checking. I did this on my belt sander with a fairly dull belt which gave me a better feel. After each sequence of sanding round the edges of the limbs at least a little by hand sanding to prevent a sliver from lifting when you draw the bow.
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Offline rthook21

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2009, 08:33:00 PM »
Thanks for the input everyone... I'll take it slow and I should be OK!
thanks again!!

Offline Chuck Hoopes

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Re: lowering draw weight on a recurve
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2009, 10:48:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Apex Predator:
I would draw two lines on each limb about 1/8" from each edge and work to the line.
1/8" from each edge may be more than than you want to start with.  Ive reduced wt. on at least 1/2 doz. glass bows and my est.is that 1/16" on each side should reduce 5-7lbs.  I got so I did not even mark lines on the bow--just went at it w/ a sander--kind of instinctive like-- never had a prob.  Marking a line as suggested is definitly the way to go, for sane, prudent men.  Just go slow, remove wood alittle at a time as evenly as possible, pull bow 20 to 30 times check tiller, visually, of measure, than proceed.  It is important to continually pull the bow to allow it to settle into itself.  Just go slow, be attentive, and all will go well.  Its not really as big a deal as you might think.

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