My progress so far-Started tillering

[scrub-buster]

Here is my first attempt at an osage selfbow.  It is 66" end to end.  I have the back down to the early ring just above the late ring that I want for the back.  It has a good amount of back set (I think that's what you call it).  I have read that it is a good thing, is that correct?  Each limb also has a twist about half way down.  I have read the topic about heat treating, but I don't know what kind of heat gun is best.  I saw one at Lowes for $25 in the paint section.  Would that work?  I think it was a wagner brand.  I am ready to start on a second one while this one is drying out.  

   

   

   

   

Thanks for all of the advice so far.

[Pat B]

That Wagner heat gun should work fine!
  You should start working your limbs down to at least floor tiller stage(about 4" of tip movement)first. If possible get to a point where you can brace your bow safely at a low brace of about 4". At that point you will be able to see how the string tracks and then you can decide how much(if any) heat straightening is needed. You are not working with a perfect medium so "perfection" is not always necessary. You can make a good, successful wood bow with imperfections that would be disastrous with glass bows.

[scrub-buster]

Pat B,
     Is the shape of the limbs bending towards the back a good thing, or should I try to heat that out of it as well?

[Pat B]

It is a good thing! Don't be deceived by the early weight as you bend the bow. Take it real slow as you tiller it out past a flat profile.

[scrub-buster]

Originally posted by Pat B:
It is a good thing! Don't be deceived by the early weight as you bend the bow. Take it real slow as you tiller it out past a flat profile.

Thanks for the advice.  Hopefully I will get to work on it some over the next two days.  I also plan on laying out a second one and start on it too.  This bow making stuff is addicting.

[dave_570]

Osage orange LOVES steam......dry heat makes the
wood cells brittle....but it's ur choice if u use
dry heat go slow...adjusting a little then cooling and so on till it's right.

[George Tsoukalas]

Back set can be a good thing. It does make getting a bow a bit more difficult. Jawge

[scrub-buster]

I started tillering it yesterday.  I think I am doing OK so far.  I started out with a long string, I don't have a tillering string, so I used some small rope from the hardware store.
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Here it is with a shorter string.

 

The string doesn't go straight down the bow.  I am not sure if this is a problem.

 

[George Tsoukalas]

I answer you on the other site regarding tiller. I'll answer about the string. Typically I leave the nocks wide on character bows. On osage I leave them a good 1/2-3/4 in. until at least the first stringing and usually until full draw. That lets me cut the nocks further on the offending side to bring the string to center more. The offending side is the bottom of the pic. I also leave the handle full width. That way I can shape it to center the string. I can't see the nocks in your picture so I don't know how much room you have there.  Anyway, that's not bad as long as you resist the temptation to shoot the bow from that side. It will punish your arm and you will get more arrow flight. I would make the upper limb the right one. Jawge

[scrub-buster]

How do you string a longbow properly.  I am not sure if I am doing it right.  I put one end on the floor and hold on to the top of the other limb and slide the string up onto the nock while pushing on the handle with the other hand.  Is there an easier way?
This is as far as I got on the tiller today.  

 

[George Tsoukalas]

I use a bow stringer. If you are using the push pull but the nock on your instep not the floor to protect it. I would not pull that anymore until you straighten out the tiller and I wouldn't string it until you do. I only long string tiller to 10 in of string movement. Jawge