Need Help Modifying Bingham Handle (shorter)

[MW Gray]

I have the Bingham TD recurve plans for 62, 64, 66 inch bows.  Because of my draw length (32") I would like to use the longer limb pattern, but shorten the handle.  As shown on the Bingham plans the TD handle is 21".  I would like to reduce down to 17".

Any suggestions? And what impact will it have on draw weight?  Thanks.

[MW Gray]

ttt

[Tom Leemans]

I would think that if you go shorter, you'd need to sweep it back a bit to get the draw length. I'm no glass bow guy though, but if you want a 32" draw, shortening it would cause it to stack more.

[MW Gray]

Thanks Tom.  

How about any of you glass bow guys?

[Trux Turning]

As you shorten the riser you will lose weight-don't know what the limb pad angle is for that bow but if it is around 22 degrees that should also work with the shorter riser. Longer risers and shorter limbs can give you better performance/speed.

[SOS]

I've only made a Bingham's long bow.  Everyone says just call them for suggestions, very helpful.

[OconeeDan]

I made a bow using the binghams limbs and a shorter riser of my design.  Ended up being a 55 inch recurve, it is actually a tad shorter.  
Only thing I can say...call Binghams!  They are most knowledgeble about their designs and can help you adjust for the change in draw weight that will occur.  Also, try to keep your angles the same for the limb pads, it helps them in their calculations.
Dan

[Dan Bonner]

All other things being equal your weight will go up, not down as you shorten the riser. Unless you increase the limb pocket angle or shorten the limb wedges, shortening the riser will cause the bow to stack more at longer draw lengths. With that long a draw I would stick with the long limbs-long riser combination. In most bows shortening the amo length by 1 inch will add 2-4 pounds of draw, so if the 66"amo bow with the long riser yields a 50# bow at a given limb thickness, reducing the riser by 4" assuming you dont change the limb pocket length will yield a bow in the 58-66# range. If you are dead set on shortening the riser try shortening the limb wedges by 1-1.5" each to accomodate your long draw. In my experience cutting an inch from each wedge will reduce the draw weight by 7-8 pounds on a recurve. Elmont Bingham will be able to help with this as well.

[Roughcountry]

I've done three with a 18" riser, 1st one is a 58" and is the bow I use most. Biggest difference I see in it is it's not quite as forgiving, but fast.
The other 2 are 60" and are very nice bows to shoot.
I asked Charlie Lamb to shoot the 58 when he was out here. He said to flatten my angle slightly for more early weight.
I did that on # 3 and it's the best I've made.
(Thanks again Charlie)

My form seems to turn out limbs slightly heavy compared to bingams figures. Seems to jump a pound or two heavy'er when I shorten the riser.
 My draw is 29 and I don't notice a stacking problem

[legends1]

I have a 32" draw myself.I wouldnt want to shorten the riser.If i were you i would stick to the 21".

[Bone lake]

Roughcountry, how much did you flatten the angle on the limb pads? About shortening the riser, I think I read its about 7 lbs. per inch but I would call on that one. The last one I made I added a inch to the wedges(made them myself and for got to trim them off) added 8 lbs. to what it should have come out at, and like Dan said, fast but not forgiving. Gave it away to a knuckle dragging freind of mine.

[Roughcountry]

Bone
I used the thikness of a med.dull pencil line.  (pretty high tech huh) I've got some pics of the last one, I'll see if I can find it and get it on here.

[Roughcountry]

Here's a pic of the short riser.
 

[Bone lake]

Nice looking bow Roughcountry, I like it!