What saw for backing strips?

[ALW]

Do you guys use a table saw or a bandsaw to cut backing strips?  Just wondering.  I just inherited a 12" Jet bandsaw and was going to try cutting some backing strips from a piece of pecan.  More for practice than anything else.  I also have a table saw but was wondering what you guys use.  Thanks.

Aaron

[bjansen]

I have tried both, I prefer the tablesaw.  When I use the bandsaw (grizzly 14"), I use a 3/4 4 tpi blade and a featherboard or two. On the tablesaw, I either use a thin kerf rip blade or a 40tooth general blade, again usign a tight featherboard.  

I get the best results on the tablesaw.  Best of luck

[Eric Krewson]

I don't have a table saw so I cut them on a bandsaw and sand out the blade marks on a belt sander.

[Pat B]

I used my table saw to cut backing strips.

[bigcountry]

Well, I have tried with a bandsaw and I have come to the conclusion my bandsaw skills suck.  I had to send thru a joiner first and then ask my nieghbor to send thru his planer to get a flat even piece.  

When if I had a decent tablesaw, I would have got it right the first pass.

[2treks]

The table saw will work but the band saw is much safer. If you have your saw tuned up you can cut some strips fast. Just cut them a bit thick so you can sand out your saw marks. do you have a board or a log?

[Pat B]

A table saw can be dangerous. Because of the rotation of the blade it can shoot the backing strip out like a spear if you aren't careful. A band saw would be a better choice but my skills are poor too.

[2treks]

If your band saw is in good tune, then you are in good shape and it is not hard to cut strips. If it is out of tune you will trash a bunch of wood in a hurry, mo matter the skill level.
"The complete guide to the band saw" by Mark Duginske, is a good book to get your saw in good shape. I cut some lams the other day that went about 030 off the saw. just to see if I could. my friend Mike can get 22 veneers out of a 2" board. That is a big advantage to the band saw. you waste less wood and the saw marks CAN be less, making cleanup easier.
   Just my thoughts, after pulling hair for a few years with a band saw that is out of tune.
Chuck,

[ALW]

Thanks for the replys.  My wood is in stave form.  Oversized stave form.  I thought about cleaning up the sides with the bandsaw first and then truing them up on the jointer to get a good even board.  I know very little about a bandsaw so I'm going to have to do some research on tuning one.  Thanks again for the advice.

One other question.  What's a good all around bandsaw blade for reducing staves as well as cutting backing strips?  The saw will take up to a 1/2" blade.

Aaron

[2treks]

1/2" 3-4tpi I have had good luck with viking and timber wolf blades. woodcraft and grizzly carry them.

[Steve Kendrot]

I am a novice bandsaw user too, having picked up a 12" Delta last year. I bought a woodslicer blade from highland woodworking. It cuts like butter, though I think its getting dull judging from the burn marks I've been getting on recent cuts. I tried to build a resaw fence but I haven't been able to figure out exactly how to compensate for blade drift so I found that a single point fence was a bit easier to cut a straight uniform thickness.

My trouble is my shop is not climate controlled and humidy is bad in Maryland. Anyone have tricks for keeping surface rust at bay?

[muskiedaze]

To compensate for blade drift with a bandsaw, draw a straight line on a piece of plywood. Cut along the line,  but not all the way through the board. Then clamp a board along the edge of the plywood to use as a fence at the same angle the board winds up at.Use a parallel fence for different thicknesses.

John

[2treks]

The wood slicer blade is awesome as long as you are only wanting to slice, it has little or no set and is very thin so any free hand sawing can shorten it's life. The other blades mentioned are good all around general purpose blades.
  Blade drift is found by taking a piece of ply wood at least 16" long and 6-8" wide -SQUARED UP!, draw a line down the center of the length, and mark the 8" point or center. cut fre hand on this line up to the 8" mark, and HOLD FIRM the ply wood as you turn off the saw and let it STOP. now measure from the edge of the ply wood to the miter slot or the edge of the table at the front AND rear of the table. this measurement will let you know what the off-set will be,I also mark the edge of the ply wood so I do not lose my reference points Then you can use any straight and square board as a fence to rip any thickness. as stated above, just keep it parallel to the reference line.
    To keep rust at bay you can use steel wool and a liquid rubbing compound to clean the surface.then spray with a product called Dri-Coat
also from Highland. This will keep you top rust free and slick as a whistle.
   it is all easy when you do it once or twice.
good luck, Chuck

[ALW]

Thanks for the advice here.  I have a link to Highland Woodworking that gives information on adjusting your bandsaw and how to set it up to cut "straight".  It's pretty much like what you guys mentioned.  The saw is at my Dad's place so I'll only get to use it when we are up visiting my parents.  I'll look into some of the blades you guys mentioned.  Thanks again.

Aaron