Fast Flight String

[dbscott]

I have been shooting traditional for a couple years and just now looking at building my own bow.  I am actually following the steps under the "so you think you want to build a bow" thread.  I do have a couple of questions though.  What is a fast flight string? Why can you only use it on certain bows? How do you know what bows you can use it on? and finally can you buy the different strings for the tillering process (short and long) already made?  sorry for so many questions!

[Jeremy]

"Fast Flight" is term used generically for a string made of a low-stretch material.  It's actually a specific material type made by Brownells.  Other low-stretch materials include D97, TS1, Ultracam, 8125 and a few others.  They all stretch and creep less than dacron.

A "FF capable" bow usually has tip overlays added so that the string grooves can be properly rounded.  This both strengthens the tips and reduced stress risers in the grooves.  The vast majority of bows out there do NOT have their string grooves shaped properly IMO.

I have no issues with the low-stretch strings and selfbows.  I prefer to shoot them with the "FF" strings actually; the sweet spot for the brace height is generally lower (so less stress on the limbs) and the lower amount of stretch in the string means you don't get the annoying (and often painful) wrist slap after the shot.

[Jason Scott]

Dacron is the same as B50 which has been around forever. The newer low-stretch are a few decades old at most and some are more recent. I use B50 because it is 1/3 the cost. I wanted two colors and B50 cost me $17 and low-stretch was about $65 for two small spools. The low-stretch string materials offer higher performance (a few fps) but not enough to justify the $.

[Jason Scott]

You can buy a tiller string (or make one) that is long enough to do the long and short tiller. One end should have a loop tied and the other just leave it untied. You can tie a hitch knot in the untied end and adjust for the length you need.
You can use B50 on any bow but FF only if the tips can take it. I have seen bows last with FF that were not intended to use it. It is mostly a liablility and waranty thing. Some shooters have used FF on old vintage bows and messed them up and the retailers and manufacturers don't want to be liable for old bows. Most well made new bows can take it because almost everyone builds strong tips because of the popularity of FF.

[Jeremy]

Originally posted by Jason Scott:
a few fps

My experience has been 5-10 fps on all the bows I've tried it, going from regular B50 string to a thin (not skinny) TS-1 string.  That's the same as shooting a bow that's 5-10# heavier, which in my mind is definitely worth it.

The string materials are sold by the 1/4# spool.  The newer materials are in almost all cases thinner than B50 and you can use fewer strands = more strings per spool.

I'd shoot the low-stretch materials even if they were slower than dacron     I prefer the feel and the reduced noise (on my longbows, selfbows and some recurves)

[Dano]

I agree with Jeremy, I've gotten good results from FF strings, sure it's more expensive but you don't replace your string near as often either. The benefits of a FF string far out weigh the cost of the material, especially if you make your own strings.

[Innocente]

no knowledge on FF strings, so no advice here,
but on tillering string:  am i the only one here who uses parachute cord?  i think it works GREAT for the tillering / early bow exercising process.

[Jason Scott]

One of these days I hope to buy a couple 1/4# spools of some type of FF. Because there are so many different types I don't know which to buy. "D97, TS1, Ultracam, 8125 and a few others" which is a favorite and why? Can I use Brownell twisted nylon serving or do I need to get one of the more exp servings? I built my last two glass lam bows with phenolic in the tips in case I ever bought some FF.

[Jeremy]

I prefer TS1 (actually TS1Plus now), though a string a friend made for me out of Ultracam is pretty sweet.  TS1 has a little more creep than D97 and less than Ulracam and 8125.  It feels a little softer at the shot than the others and it's surface seems to be a little more resistant to fraying.

Each of the materials is a little different - even the ones that are made of the same material react differently b/c of the processing.  I drive by Brownell every day and like to support a local business, so I'm partial to their products.  'Course BCY is less than a half hour drive from me too.

You can use whatever serving you like.  The real disadvantage to the twisted nylon is the lack of multiple sizes.  You can compensate for that by laying in a few extra strands under the serving or double serving for a little bit.  Many of the newer servings hold up better than the twisted nylon, but I use them both.

[frank bullitt]

Well my 2 cents is durability of the modern materials. I have shot F.F. for over 20 years and still love it.

 I have shot selfbows as long and this is the preferred string choice.
  Speed is not the objective, but the ability to shoot a heavy, hunting arrow, is my desire with my bows! F.F. acheives this.

 Kevlar actually was the birth of modern string materials and used by olympic archers until the developement of spectra.

 The problem with kevlar and simular fibers, was the wear against itself causing unseen failures.

  If you fish and have ever used spider wire, same type of materials, it will cut through steel! So the need for reinforced rod guides.

 

  Both companies use the same technology

[Jason Scott]

I know what you mean about spider wire. I used it on one of my heavy rods one year for jigging in deep grass quite a bit. I heard that it would groove out your guides and went to check mine and it was too late. It was ruined.

[dbscott]

Thanks for all the explanation this has helped a ton!

[4est trekker]

I have never used fast flight because an old timer (whom I adore!) who mentored me on making self bows said that it didn't provide that "cushion" needed to prevent limb damage and thar it could be problematic on the bow nocks (as described in earlier posts).  I don't use it because that old timer didn't, and he could nail a flee on a fly at 30 yards with a crooked stick and a B50 string.  Plus, it's cheaper.  But, there's always room for improvement, and if will add as much speed as ya'll indicate and allow me to cast a heavier arrow, I might look into it.  

My question is, since you (dbscott) are following my build-along, I would like to know if anybody sees a problem using FF with the particular I built for that build-along.  Thanks all!,

[soopernate]

I know a this young guy on some of the other boards who uses fastflite on all of his selfbows.  He uses a lower strand count and pads the loops with extra strands to keep from cutting the nocks...works well for him.  I personally use B5o on my wood bows because its what I have but would not be afraid to try fastflite if given the chance. I have d97 on my glass and carbon backed bows.

[Dano]

I use FF on all my selfbows, have for a few years now. I make a 14 strand string, 12 would be better, but I don't care for the extra work of padding loops and building up the knocking point.I make sure that I use either horn or a hardwood for tip overlays and make sure they are well rounded. I gotta say I have not seen the wear or problems the others talk about. It seems to give a selfbow better manors as well. I guess a person has to get over the stories and try it, at least once. My 2 cents for what it's worth.