will this work?

[penrosefred]

I plan on going to home depot and buying a 1x2x6' piece of red oak and a piece of maple the same size, gluing theme together and running them through my planner, both sides to resize. How thick should the red be and how thick should the maple be for a bow of about 45pds?then I will glue the piece for the grip. I don't have to tell you this is my first try at bow making. You bowyers ar driving me nuts with you bows. Where do you get spread on epoxy, is that what I should use as I don't have a oven? I am sure there will be more later.

[Pat B]

A backing should not be any thicker than about 1/8". Leave the belly full thickness add your riser then reduce the limbs so the handle area is thicker than the limbs so the handle won't pop off when you bend the bow. I never measure limb thickness. I remove wood until the limbs bend evenly and together and at the draw weight I want.
  Another option is to get 2 red oak boards and one maple. Glue them together with the maple in the middle. Then rip the maple in half so you have 2 maple backed red oak bow blanks to work with. I got this idea from a little booklet by Dr. Vaughn Ditto called "Bows fro Boards".  I believe it is advertised in PA magazine, if you are interested.

[penrosefred]

interesting

[Dano]

I agree with Pats suggestions, also Titebond II or III will work just fine to glue them up.

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

If  you are aching to use epoxy you can use smooth on without an oven.  It just takes longer to cure.

My understanding with smooth on is that the strongest joint is made by allowing the epoxy to cure for 24 hours at room temp and then cure it in an oven.

[Ricker]

Listen to Pat B and Dano... There is a couple of real life masters out here helping us needy folks.
Them fellers got minds like steel traps when it comes to bow building.

but then again.....that is only my humble opinion