bending pic and a question

[Russell S.]

so there is the bow.  I am happy with it, it hits hard.  not sure what the draw weight is but i am pretty sure it came in near 55# at 29" it has been a while since i have shot.  

now for my question,
The first few shots fliped up a bit off the bow, i adjusted the knock point untill it i could not see any filp, however the arrows flip to the side a bit coming of the bow.  all are hitting the target strait at any ware from 5 to 20 yrs.  is this just what happens when i bow is not center shoot?  i noticed it more when it stopped flipping up.  but it may have been that i just didnt see it when it was flipping arrow up/down.

i am shooting Beman 400's (dont tell the trad police),  i would think the shafts would be plenty stiff enough, i might just be seeing wiggle, but i dont remember seeing it off any of my old bows, recurve or compound.

[Pat B]

Sounds like your arrows are too stiff. Are you using properly spined arrows with this bow?

[Apex Predator]

Probably way too stiff Russ.  How close to center did you cut the riser?  The bend looks awesome at full draw, btw.

[eman614]

what is your point weight? i shoot beeman 400's out of my home made 55# longbow, but they are 31 1/2in long and i 250 grains up front. my bow is cut to center and that may help also. the bow looks good though.

[Jason Scott]

Looks like those are plastic vanes. Maybe not. They will bounce all over the place until you get feathers.

[Jason Scott]

If the shaft is slightly stiff the vanes will surely slam the shelf even harder. Nice bow.

[Russell S.]

thankyou every one.  thouse are plastic veins,  the shelf is cut to 5/8  thouse field points are 125 grain. the arrow is verry light.  377 total i think.  the spine,  i think that is what the 400 means but i am not sure how that means anything only that when i looked at the back of the arrow box it was in the range from 40-55# draw.

the praise should go to Marty and Kenny,  you guys really helped me out!


so here is what i got:  Get heavy tips (like 200's or better)  re-vein the arrows with feathers, if that doesn't work go to a 300 shaft.  will a arrow rest of some sort help?  like a leather piece or a calf hair?, again it isnt too bad.  the arrows seem to quickly fly strait from how they are hitting the target.  not too wild on group size, however shooting intuitively is new (again) to me.  so i am not too good of a shoot., i can hit the 15X24 target every time at 25yrds.  where is hits the target, still working on that part.

[kennym]

Good advice from all! The bow looks sweet Russ!

Play with different points and arras,and get rid of the plas vanes! Velcro works well for a rest and side(industrial grade at Wal mart)

Is your bow 1.25 or 1.5 wide in the riser,seem to remember a bit of prob with riser?

I cut mine right at center,then radius the window just a little front and back...

[Russell S.]

i used a different riser it is a full 1.5" at the center. i think i have some velcro laying around,  which side you you use the hook (rough stuff) or the pile (fuzzy stuff)?

[kennym]

the fuzzy part,I leave a gap in the corner for the feather to go thru,but I don't think it is necessary. I think the feather clears it all with paradox anyhow....

[Apex Predator]

Some good info above.  I would recommend going to this site for arrow tuning.  It will give you a bunch of good info on how to match your arrows to your bow.

 http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

[Jason Scott]

300s are stiffer and 500s are weaker. You will not need 300s. You can probably make those 400s work though with enough point weight. I like those 100 gr brass inserts, then a 125 or heavier point for a total of atleast 225 gr up front. Feathers and velcro will make a world of difference. Another thing that helps some people is turning the cock feather in because it is usually the bottom feather on a cock feather out orientation that is hitting. It does help some situations improve clearance.

[Russell S.]

thanks jason i  would have gone the wrong way, the inserts are already glued in to the patch is there anyway to get then out?

[Jason Scott]

Some glues will loosen up if heated some won't. You'll have to try, but if you can't get them out you can just use a heavy point. I think they make field points up to 250 gr. I would like to hear some tips from others about how they get inserts out that won't heat up. Maybe soak them in acetone, that shouldn't hurt the carbon.