Curing Heat Sources ????

[Shakes.602]

I have seen the Box Type "Cookers", whats up with the Heat Strip Business??  Anybody Use them Regular? Better than the "Box"? Costing Strip VS Box? I am Sooooo Confuzzed,  :confused:   it doesnt take much!!  :rolleyes:    

[JEFF B]

hey bro if i were you i would use the box type easy to make and most important dont cost a lot and i think they would hold the heat much better just my 2 cents worth.

[Pat B]

The hot box can be used for other things besides curing out a glued up bow. You can use it to dry wood, store dry wood and heat your components before glue up. A heat strip is only good for curing the glue up.

[Jason Scott]

From what I've heard, the advantage to the heat strips are:
Fast - You can start working on a glued bow blank in a few hours which is good of you have a backog of orders I guess.
They don't over dry your riserwood. But, I have never had that problem from my hot box. Maybe it's bc of where I live, I don't know.

I like my hot box. I used it last week to get rid new rubber boot smell. I baked them for three days at 130 f.

[Shakes.602]

Sounds like its the "Hot Box" Hands Down!!     Thanks Y'all!!      

[Tom Leemans]

Yup, some plywood, some foil faced foam board, some dowel rods, or old pieces of arrows (they work as shelves if you're just drying stuff), a 1X6 with a few ceramic light fixtures, and a dimmer switch. There's several plans you can look up. Bore a hole on each end (lower on one end, higher on the other) and make a simple sheet metal flap to slide over the hole for air flow control. I hooked up one of those home weather stations to mine, so I had an idea of the temp and humidity inside.

You can dry staves, slats, warm laminations, dry bamboo, etc.

[2treks]

I agree with all said, and would not be with out a hot box. BUT, for curing a bow the advantage of the heat strips are:
-will cut cure time way down.
-you do not have to move a heavy form around.
-to me and others,it seems to add clarity to limb
-puts the heat where you want it. will not dry
 out riser wood and form material.(as much)
-saves wear-n-tear on form.
   The downside is they will set you back about $300 to get set up and about $200-$250 to add new strips for new forms. Not practical for the hobbist or the guy that only builds a few bows a year.
Hope that helps.
Chuck

[kennym]

Hey Chuck,
Quick question,how can it add clarity? Heating the glue quicker?

Thanks,Kenny

[Russell S.]

I can see the clearity thing.  a key to getting a good glass coat (none of the little tiny bubbles that cloud up the glass) on a fishing rod was even aplication of heat, on the glass before it started to set, so it could flow and fill voids as best as possible. the heat strips apply heat quickly, right to the epoxy and evenly.  but 300$ clear....  thats pretty clear, i have seen what you guys using clear glass do in a heat box, i am not sure any small  improvement would be worth the 300$ plus an extra 200 for each additional form.  speeking of heat boxes i got the crazy idea to make a 24X12 box with sides that slide out and have "knockouts" in them for curing risers and tips (i had some tite bond give up the ghost this week on the riser i was making,  its smooth on for me...)  anyone got a little one like that?  got any ideas on how much wattage to use so i don't have to use a temp switch?

[kennym]

Thanks Russ!

Some guys put a partition in their big heat box and take out the unneeded bulbs.
Just make sure the thermostat is in the part you use!

[2treks]

I am not sure how it works Kenny, but what Russell said sounds good to me, that is one of the things we talked about. It was just something we picked up on after making the switch.
    And I do not mean to say that a box cured bow is "not clear", I have made plenty of bows in a hot box, we just noticed that some combos stand out a bit better.
   Like I said, a fella would want to be building some bows to want to get set up with it, and take advantage of all the other advantages as well.
   A friend had a bum shoulder and could not lift his form is how I got involved with the strips. Lots of options and like all the others, a guy needs to use what suits him. Thanks.
Chuck

[Holm-Made]

I have used both.  The heat strips are nice because of the time savings but mainly beacause I don't have to lift/carry the form around.
 
The clarity thing Chuck mentioned....I'm not so sure of...I certainly haven't noticed it or heard any other bowyers mention it until now.

The biggest problem I have with the heat strips is that both sets I had went bad right away after 6-8 bows.  Durability was a big problem and warrenty work took 6 months to replace them with me reminding them every month.  The Binghams strips are definately not worth the $$$ for me.  I have heard of other companies producing them for much cheaper but lost that info.  Anyone know of another source???
Chad

[2treks]

Chad, The clarity is something that a few of us have looked at, it is just our opinion and may or may not be something otheres would notice or comment on. The durability is not an issue for me. I have used my first set for nearly six years. and I have known some guy,s to use them for 15yrs. You will have to make sure that the strip is not bent or crushed in any way. The biggest problem I have seen is when the strip goes over the riser block or off the end of the limb stack and then gets cut or bent by the hose and breaks the wires inside.
If I can help you out let me know.
Chuck

[kennym]

Thanks guys,good info there!

[Shakes.602]

Yes it  IS  Good Info!! I dont Plan on going into Production......Just Build a Couple maybe. Even if the  BOWYER BUG BITES HARD  I can still use the Box! I can make several Boxes for  $300!!    Thanks Everybody!! Very Educational, and I got My Answer!!  NO  Tape,  YES  Box.