Table saw to trim limbs?

[wihill]

At the risk of loosing an eye/arm/leg/soul, does anyone use a tablesaw to trim their limbs down?  Don't really have a bandsaw, and I'd use a LOT of sanding belts to get them down, just looking for a way to "rough" cut the limbs down first before I use the sander to finish them in.

Am I crazy?

 

[bjansen]

I wouldn't try it myself..sounds a bit dangerous to you and the bow...what if you get some 36 grit belts (the blue zirconia ones)...they really eat a limb quick on a belt sander.

[cobbow]

Hey Wihill I cut my limbs with a tabel saw. The glass eats bandsaw blads in a hurry the table saw blads last longer. Make shure you keep the limb flat on the tabel at the point of contact with the blade or it will chatter.

Keep your fingers clear and have fun  

[kennym]

I'm with Brad, I use 36 on a disc on the  belt/disc sander to get close,then 36 on the belt to get it straight and clean.

[2treks]

Done it with a table saw,SPOOKY! but works. bandsaw is good but you need an expensive carbon blade(or a new steel blade everytime).Beltsander in the 36-50 grit works fast(enough), cheap(enough) and ACCURATE.You still need to watch yur knuckles tho.(I'm just sayin').
Chuck

[wihill]

I think I'll just invest in some better belts.  

Thanks for saving the digits gang, I know the wife will be happier in the long run.

 :D

[jess stuart]

I agree only used the bandsaw once, been grinding them to shape on the belt sander ever since.  Belts are much cheaper than blades.

[tawmio]

Ive been doing it but i use a high tooth count and only a tripple chip blade with negative hook teeth. that way it does not grab the fiberglass it more shaves it.

[sw]

I have used a ceramic blade on my table saw when doing high output of glass staves. It works fine. The blades (10" are about 40 bucks and are diamond dust coated. they shave throught the limb fast and smooth.

I do agree however it is very spooky as i have seen that ceramic blade do some weird bending when it slows down.

I do also use my 14" bandsaw to cut the limbs. I find that a normal "metal" blade with 14teeth per inch will dull out in one bow WILL ALSO  still cut the limbs of a 2nd and third bow easy. I have cut as many as 7 bows on the same dull blade. Going through the riser takes forever and the blade will walk. But going thru the limb - fast and accurate even dull.

I use 36 grit (blue belts - my fav) to grind to the lines and rough shape) and 40 grit (red belts) for the same. I can get about 2 bows rough ground out of each belt.

I will have to look up the company again as my wife handles the ordering of supplies, but the 40 grit red belts that lowes charges 7 bucks for CAN be bough for 1.00 a piece directly in 36 and 40 grit, you have to bulk buy them in 36 belt lots however. Its the same place i get my thickness sander belts from, in rolls of 2 inch by 36 grit and the drive belt 18 by 36 inch.

Also - consider buying a 220V spot welder made for band saw blades and then get the roll of blade material. 11.00 a blade at lowes - 2.50 to make the blade, and takes about 45 seconds. The spot welder is about 200.00 from harbor frieght. However the roll of blade material costs about 200.00, but saves serious money in the long run..

Just some ideas to keep costs down  

[BigJim]

I use a carbide bandsaw blade (aproximatley) can do about 100++ bows per blade. Blade cost about $120
Bigjim

[tawmio]

blue belts? is that the norton ones?

[stickmonkey]

Similar to Siege Works I have use a 7 1/4" thin kerf chopsaw blade in my small table saw. I have not cut any limbs with it but when building fiberglass parts for my kayaks it has work very nice. The RPMs on my table and chopsaw are about the same so that was not an issue. The saw blades used in arrow cut-off saws is the same just that this blade is larger. you will need to practice with some junk stock so you learn how fast to push it through as too fast or too slow will burn the wood.

[stickmonkey]

Oh and don't forget you can use a shurform with quick and easy results as well. I have done this before and was amazed. shurfom was 25 bucks i think.

Lock the blank on a flat surface with c clamps so the the limbs are supported and file to the line. Be carful cause it does remove materiel quickly.

[wihill]

I can use a shurform on fiberglass?  I'd have never thought that in a million years...

 I've got a smaller one, but was looking at a larger model the other day in the store.  I've been kicking around the thought of trapping the limbs on a bow I'm working on now, and want to make sure I can see the angle I'm putting on the edge.  I was worried the sander might be too aggressive, but a long shurform I can maintain the angle and keep track of how much material I'm removing...

Great idea!

[Tom Leemans]

I don't make glass bows but if you want to "rough" sand to the line, get some Alumina Zirconia  planer belts for your sander. I get mine from   Klingspor

[kennym]

I'm bettin with a sureform,you wanna work toward the end of the limb so you don't lift a splinter of glass.....

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Has anyone ever tried a power planer?  I was doing a build a few months back and someone told me to give it a try.  I don t have one but the idea sounds like it should work.

pete

[Tom Leemans]

Pete- You maybe talkin' about a jointer? Spinning blades near a glass lam bow can only = bad news.

[Robertfishes]

Seeing as Im still a rookie Im gonna keep using my belt sander. I  can grind to the lines about as fast as I can setup/tune my band saw with carbide blade. I plan to build two bows a month next year, all of them for me and Helen..gonna place a glass and glue order arround the first week of Jan....

[stickmonkey]

Originally posted by kennym:
I'm bettin with a sureform,you wanna work toward the end of the limb so you don't lift a splinter of glass.....

Yup that's right Bro. I posted a pic of an aggressive trapping on a bow on another sight but it was block sanded after the bulk was taken down with the shurform.