Bow form ??

[Scott F]

I'm getting ready to begin making my first glass t/d longbow following Bingham's plans.  I've elected to use the same bow form material that SOS used, particle board for shelves.  I'm aware of the risks, but I think that it will last for a set of limbs or two.

I was very surprised that I was able to get the form as square as I did using basically hand tools (after bandsawing it close).

Now I need (want) to attach a 1/16" aluminum strip to the form but I'm not sure what I should use.  Will rubber cement work?  If so, do I need to rough up the bonding surface of the aluminum?

Scott

[GREG IN MALAD]

If in doubt,rough it up with 60 grit. I used barge cement to glue glass to a form once, when I removed the glass it took part of the form with it.

[bjansen]

I would use smooth on..just rough up the aluminum a bit and I think it will hold just fine.

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Good Luck with the aluminum. Rubber cement is not what I would consider. I tried aluminum once and did not like it at all.  It did not want to follow the curve of the form exactly.  I ended up going back to my old standby which is Formica and have stuck with that ever since. I attach the Formica with contact cement designed for gluing kitchen counters.

This is just my $.02.  I am sure aluminum will work but I would vote against it.  I have made 6 different bow forms so I am by no means an expert.  

pete

[kennym]

I've used formica with contact cement like Pete, but the form I use most now has nothing on it but wax,works just as good as the one with formica.

I've had a couple guys buy black glass to put on the form also.

[bamboo]

aluminum to particle board--gorrilla glue is the stuff--rough it[aluminum]-and moisten the "wood"--clamp it

[Holm-Made]

I smooth on a piece of fiberglass to the surface of the form.  I do it when I glue up the first bow on the new form.  Butter up both surfaces tape it down the best you can, cover with saran wrap and glue the new bow up on top of it.  Easy, Smeasy!    Chad

[Scott F]

Well, true to my nature I just couldn't wait!

I used the particle board and rubber cemented the aluminum to the form.  Took my first limb out of the oven and let it cool down.  When it was room temp I took off the wrapping.  Mine is an inner tube form without dowels, I simply wrap the inner tube around the entire form.  It turned out WAY better than I anticipated that it would.  I'll try to get my second limb to look as good as this one -- then I'll retire this form and build one with plywood and formica because the risk isn't worth it.

Also, I made a top pressure 'plate' out of 1/2" PVC pipe with some relief cuts every 2" along its lenght.  When this was done I decided to use a piece of 1/4" poplar that I had laying around as a top pressure plate instead.  It worked out great.

This bow is a Bingham's prounounced T/D longbow and I've shortened the limbs somewhat to achieve a 66" bow.  Limb(s) are maple with brown glass, riser is walnut with some maple and ipe accents for strength and looks.  I'm going to keep the centerline, shelf, and limb angles the same as the plans but shape it more along the lines of a Pronghorn 3 piece.  I hoep that it works...

[Tom Leemans]

For anyone using some sort of mechanical clamps.

Whenever I glue up BBO's I use a form like Dean Torges suggests and I use F-clamps and C-clamps. I lay a 1/4 thick piece of rubber against the boo after covering it with wrap. My pressure strip is simply a long piece of 3/16" thick ripping from a 2X4. It flexes with the bow and spreads out any excess pressure from the clamps. Best thing is that it's cheap and easy and you can throw it away if you'd like.