Hand Shock

[BHast]

I have noticed a difference in hand shock with my bows and I don't have a good understanding why.
I am building hybrids, and as I've reduced the Reflex/Deflex, my arrow speed increases, along with the hand shock.
The Question..How do I reduce hand shock on my faster bows?

[Ricker]

Try adjusting the brace height...assuming your arrows are plenty heavy.

I have a r/d bow that likes 8" of B.H.  That seems like a lot but considering how much deflex is there, it is what can make it more.

[Apex Predator]

Normally, it's limb timing attributing excessive shock.  Make sure you don't have too much excess weight on your tips, as well.

[Bruce Martin]

How does one adjust timing on a glass backed/belly bow once it's made? Or even before its made. On a wood/bamboo backed bow I do it the way Dean Torges recommends during tillering by stringing and tracing the limbs, then flipping the bow and tracing again to look at superimposition of the limb bends.

[Art B]

One thing you can do is grip your bow for the way it was designed. Or design a bow for the way you grip 'em. Are you guys doing that? That does more for limb timing than anything else.

Are you controlling equal limb mass during the building process?

Some good advice above so try everything you can. Seems like it's never just one controlling factor when it comes to hand shock. Good luck. ART

[George Tsoukalas]

Good advice above. I think tips that are too thick add to shock too. Jawge

[mater]

Are you using the same limb material in both designs. The weight of the limbs will make a difference. I also found when I spent more time tillering my bows dont have the same shock. The measurment from riser to string is only a starting point.

[jess stuart]

R/D longbows have always been touted has having less handshock.  If I understand correctly you are removing R/D from your latest bows.  They are becoming more of a D or Hill style, both are known to have more handshock.  Sometimes, well almost always, a small change in design will have a big effect.

I have come to think that middle of the road so to speak designs are sometimes the best when all things are considered.  

Other things that can cause handshock other than those mentioned in the earlier posts, are arrows that are too light.  You said your design is now faster does it need more arrow weight?  What type of string are you using the low strech type usually help with handshock.

[dutchwarbow]

Interesting.

I have an 67" howard hill-style bow, with limbs tapering from 1 1/2" to 1/4" at the tips. The tiller is to be proud off. Yet, it shocks pretty badly.

Anyone knows why? I'll give it a try to increase the Bh.

Nick

[BHast]

Thank you!
My process has been starting with 1/8" tiller difference, when possible, I adjust the grip to the shooter,then..shoot,adjust,shoot,adjust....I think it's time well spent, but it's adjusted to my shooting form.  I get into trouble when I'm building left handed bows..mostly because my left handed shooting form is not consistant.
Limb tips??
I 've been maintaining an 1/8" phenolic tip (w/ wood overlay) to accomodate Fast Flite.  Most of my bows are in the 50# @ 28" range.  Could I thin this down?
Limb materials, except the veneers(I make at .045") are the same, but I have found that if I build the bottom taper (.002"/in.) .005" thicker, I get the 1/8" positive tiller right off the form.
Agree, so many variables...My lastest form has only made 12 bows so I'm taking notes and learning.  
The hand shock I experience is nowhere near a production longbow, but greater than my earlier bows that were amost recurves...
T'is a great hobby and I appreciate this forum to gather insights from you all.
From my garage, I'm keeping it simple (trying anyways!)

[Art B]

Nick, mostly speculation on my part but here's how I see the Hill design. The way the Hill style bow is designed it pretty much lends it's self to a certain amount of hand shock. It's reflexed right out of the handle with a short riser also. That causes, in my opinion, and added thump that the shooter feels. With it's more rigid handle design I believe the bow arm becomes the major shock absorber (instead of the limbs themselves).

Probably the best thing to do is try different hand placements/pressures for best limb timing.

Got any pics of that bow? ART

[mater]

I have to agree with Art on the hill style. Not sure you can beat it, but there still coool.

[dutchwarbow]

Art, here are some pictures:

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001786

hope you like it!! thinking about lowering the shelf, as it's too high above center for my liking anyways.

What do you think?

Nick

[Art B]

Your certainly a great craftsman Nick! I really like your work. ART

[eman614]

this is just my two cents. i built a r/d longbow that was 64in, and it had quite a bit of handshock. it was my first bow so i let it go. then i built one for my uncle, it was 62in and left handed, but i noticed that it had considerably less hand shock. then i built another for my self. it was62in also, and it had much less handshock than the first. the next bow i made was 64in, and the handshock was again pretty bad. all of the bows have tips that are right around 1/2in wide. after building the four bows and seeing the pattern between a shorter bow and less shock, i took the first bow that was 64in and made it 60in. it is the best of them all. and it still shoots plenty fast. thought this may interest you. good luck
eric