spoke shave?

[razorsharptokill]

I bought a Stanley spoke shave at Woodcraft for working on staves. I can't seem to get it to work. What is the secret? All I get is chatter marks. I've adjusted the blade to just barely exposed and to out a ways.

[Pat B]

I don't like using a spoke shave or  a plane for selfbows(with the exception of yew or ERC). Because of the sole on each both are made for working relatively flat material.

[Diamondback59]

take er back  exchange it for the lie neessiln  spokeshave best ya can get in my book  i hate the stanly  brock

[razorsharptokill]

Yeah I didn't like it at all. The only reason I got it was because of its mention in "Hunting the Osage bow". I think I'd do more damage than good with it.

[Pat B]

A good rasp and a scraper are a better choice for wood bow building IMO.

[rainman]

Go back to Woodcraft and they have books on tuning planes and spokeshaves.  A Hock blade and some tuning and the Stanley will work as good as the Lie-Nielsen for half the price.  I agree with Pat that a rasp and scraper are good for bow building but a good spokeshave with knowledge to use it correctly, is a great tool.  Thats why they used them for Wagon Spokes.  A japanese spoke shave is even better but also has to be tuned.

Merry Christmas.

[msamn]

you might want to give Dean Torges' Bowyer's Edge a look. I have three spoke shaves including the Stanley model. I like Dean's much better. I too tend to get chatter with the Stanley, but can get some nice shavings with Dean's tool. It's about $50.

[Roy Steele]

I totally agree with PAT.Draw knife,rasp,scraper,sandpaper this is all I ever use on my selfbows.When it comes to selfbows the slower the better.

[kat]

I have a spoke shave that I don't use anymore.  I had a hard time getting it to stop chattering too.
I had some luck with it by changing the pressure I was using on its 'heel', and having a very small amount of the blade protruding.
Like I said, I don't use it anymore.  I got a bowyer's edge from Dean Torges, and it works great.

[JMartin]

Well, I'm happy to hear I'm not the only one to "buger" up a stave with a spoke shave. I don't use mine anymore. Rasp and scraper for me!

[Brently]

I use a bow scraper, got mine at Raptor Archery.  They work really great on self bow, they just follow the wood and go over knots etc.

[dutchwarbow]

I love my little spokeshave!! works like a charm on straight grained staves.

axe, drawknife, spokeshave, (file) sandpaper for me . In that order.

Nick

[Tom Leemans]

First thing you do with a spokeshave like that is work the sole on a honing stone until dead smooth. Next I sharpen the blade until it is shaving sharp, then you can adjust the tool. That said, I like my Bowyers Edge, rasps, scrapers, etc.

[Shaun]

A spoke shave can be used to round corners and it removes wood faster than a scraper and slower than a draw knife. To work osage is must be very sharp with a small blade exposure. The problem is that it tends to follow grain which is seldom straight in osage. For hickory or yew it is a great tool.

For osage my favorite tools in order of use are: chain saw, wedge, draw knife, pencil, band saw, rasp, cabinet file, nock file, bowyers edge scraper, hand held scraper, fine sand paper.

For yew and white wood, the spoke shave takes the place of the rasp in this line up.

[riivioristo]

I have a stanley spokeshave and it cuts nicely to wood...but I just use it from the box - so dont know how to help you to adjust your own - there must be some advice around this issue somewhere - Stanley homepage?