Bow rebuild help

[Earl Jeff]

I purchased a homemade Hickory bow from e-bay and as you can see the tiller is way out the bottom limb is weak other wise the bow is pretty nice it is stoutly built but only 50 to 55# @ 30 inches. 72" long. my question is what can I do to bring the weight back up after I weaken the upper limb to correct the tiller problem. can I shorten the bow and or back it with something to increase its weight again. Also the bow seen to take a slight set after strung and shot for a while, I would appreciate any help Thanks.

[Earl Jeff]

[Broke another one]

I believe the general rules is if you shorten the bow one inch on both sides you add 5 pounds. I think you could also add a backing to the bow, and that would get the poundage back up, but lets see what the experts have to say.

[Pat B]

Will you post a pic unbraced? That will tell a lot.
From the looks of the braced pic the weaker limb is bending mostly at the inner 1/3 of the limb. You should get it bending better too. You might ought to start over and build one from scratch yourself. Lots of talented folks here to help you along.

[Apex Predator]

Why not send it back to the builder?

[Earl Jeff]

Bought the bow as is from e-bay just wanted to know if there is something I can do to save it or use it for fire wood. here's a pic unbraced looks pretty good to me.

[Earl Jeff]

[Art B]

That's a classic example of a bow being used where to much hand/heel pressure is being applied for it's original design. Or the bow not being designed for proper hand/heel pressure.

If the bow's limbs are the same length you could shorten the lower limb about and inch and that should help even at the tiller somewhat. You still may have to do some work on the upper limb also.

Funny thing about shortening a bow, if you retiller to the same profile, you come at with pretty much the same bow weight.

Give us a little more info please. How about showing us just where the bow's dimensional center (measure from tip to tip and mark center) is located in relation to the arrow shelf. And check to see if the bow's static point (just balance the bow on a pencil or something) lines up with your center mark. ART

[Earl Jeff]

as you can see in the pic the centerline and balance pt are in the web area of the grip approximately 1/4" apart.

[Earl Jeff]

top line is the balance pt

[Art B]

Earl Jeff, it appears as if your handle is already offset for a shorter lower limb. So shortening the lower limb may not be an option.

Looks like a nice crafted bow and well worth keeping. Being 72" long gives you and option of shorting quite a bit and retillering. What's your draw length? ART

[Earl Jeff]

Art thanks for all the info. my draw is 28" on the nose, I know I have to use a clicker.

[Art B]

If your have sufficient limb width then you can shorten your bow to 64" ntn and still be OK. But 66" ntn my be more prudent if you don't have the width.

One thing about the bow's handle, it's shape is more suited for a low wrist/full hand grip IMO, which may have contributed to the loss of the bow's tiller. From all apearences, the bow's lay-out suggests a more medium grip. Good luck and be sure to let us know how it finally turns out. ART

[Earl Jeff]

TTT

[dutchwarbow]

Nicely finished bow, but the tiller is horrible indeed. Being 72" long, I would knock it down to a 65-67" ntn, retiller it, and refinish it.

another good option might be adding a backing. Maple/Ash would give an excelent backing for hickory
(as maple's lighter, it won't put as much strain on the belly as hickory itself. leading to less set and better performance, similar to trapping)

goodluck!

Nick

[Earl Jeff]

thanks Nick

[Earl Jeff]

TTT