Clear Glass Advice

[Pack Howler]

I have made laminate bows with black glass in the past with now problems but I am now going to try using clear glass over my core woods to make my bows a little more handsome. My question is do you have to treat the clear glass any different than say brown or black glass? Any advice would be great!

Thanks in advance.
Andrew

[Tyler Langston]

I dont think you have to I think its the same as brown or black glass.

[Jason Scott]

No difference. Now you get to see how well your pressuring process is. If there is anything you need to change it will show as far as uneven pressure. Air bubbles or thick glue under the glass.

[jess stuart]

I always warm my lams. and glass in my hot box, don't know if it helps with the clear glass or not but it was suggested.  Some clear glass will have streaks in it, it will show much more over a dark wood such as black walnut.  Smooth on has worked better for me with clear glass than any of the others glues I have tried.

[Pack Howler]

Thanks guys I appreciate it. This will definitely test my rubber band method. I think I am just going to get started and hope for the best!

Andrew

[Mike Most]

One other thing you might like to know, if you can, use a dremmel with a cutoff wheel to cut that glass when  necessary (in the layup process). I tried with shears once and then had to deal with lengthwise cracks, not fun.

they get visible

Mike

[Pack Howler]

Thanks Mike I will keep that in mind.

Andrew

[kennym]

No change from black,cept is is harder to see the splinters you pick up once in a while! LOL

We need pics of said bow too!  :D

[Jason Scott]

Howler, take a look at the way Apex and Russel use the pressure strip for their rubber band method. It helps keep everything good and clear under the glass. You may already have that covered.

[sw]

I second what jason said. Rubberbands and even pressure = pressure strip and clear glass will show it big time.

Be sure to wipe down your laminates and glass - i use acetone and then i use a feather duster to get any particals and dust off after the wipe down. Its easy to get a small hair into the glue up and never see it until the bow is done, trust me i made this mistake not long ago.

Other then that no real difference, have fun and go for it  

[Pack Howler]

Thanks I think the pressure strip idea is great. I have used one before but not as beefed up as say Apex's. I also like the idea of the feather duster to clear up stuff the acetone doesn't get. Thanks for all the advice. I hope to get started in the next day or two and I will keep everyone posted with pics!

[Shaun]

Clear glass can have two surfaces, one has been sanded on one smooth. Put your glue on the sanded side.

[BigJim]

When I first started building bows, I would ocasionally get small airbubbles under the glass. Since I have only used clear glass, this would show baddly. I have long since swithced to spreading glue with a artists, paint knife and heavily spread glue back and forth on veneers and then leave it until I have glued up the rest of the lams and then re spread the veneers. I have for the most part completely eliminated air bubbles. I have never used a rubberband type form and had to wory about the heavy backing strip. All my forms are air hose type and I utilize a 20ga strip of metal. Does the job nicely. You can use a snips to cut the glass, just leave it long enough so when you cut the bow to length, you cut away the small cracks left by the snips.
Bigjim

[Pack Howler]

I normally use a great amount of smooth on so using the artists brush is a good idea to get a nice glue line. I use a fairly heavy pressure strip as it is so hopefully it won't fail me on this build! Thanks for your advice BigJim and everyone else who contributed to my intermediate bow building question.