Clarification on TBIII Drying

[K. Mogensen]

Okey Dokey, I know that I posted a thread a couple weeks or so ago about gluing up an all bamboo bow with some TBIII. I was concerned because some people said that when the wrapped it with shrink wrap, it did not dry. Well, the moment of reckoning has arrived.                

Thanks!

[bjansen]

I personally think it would dry if you give it a week...TB is best for smooth surfaces as it doesn't have the gap filling properties that URAC or an epoxy has..so i would stay away from a heavy hacksaw blade.  60 grit would be just fine.

[Pat B]

It will dry but all of the moisture from the glue will be absorbed by the wood. This makes for a very sluggish bow until all of that moisture leaves the wood. If you wrap it where the rubber band(?) doesn't overlap itself it will help.
  Another option is to size both gluing surfaces first and let that glue dry before adding more glue and the wrap. I'd still not overlap the bands. The sizing will act as a vapor barrier but still adhere to the glue at glue-up.

[K. Mogensen]

Could you explain what sizing the glueing surface is? I've never heard of that. Thanks!

To clarify, I was going to wrap the entire bow with shrink wrap, and then wrap the rubber band around so just the edges are touching. The whole length of the bow. Then I would just clamp it in my "form" with 8 C-clamps.

[Jason Scott]

I think he means to smear a film of tb on the gluing serfaces and let them air dry. Not sticking them together. This way the moisture will evaporate into the air instead of seep into the wood. Then after dry you can reaply some glue to both surfaces and glue them together. This already set dry barrier film will keep the moisture from the tb from soaking into the wood when wraped.

[K. Mogensen]

Got it. I'll try it on some scrap pieces and wrap them like I'll wrap my bow and see how well they dry. Thanks for the help guys!

[fixer]

Rudder bows where you got the bands from has a two part glue 'Bow Grip 100' that I used on my bamboo backed purple heart and used their rubber bands over srink wrap worked good. The glue is a filler also for any small voids and can be cured at room temp but is better in a hot box. They have a web sight with all ther products from raw materisls to kit bows or finished bows.

[K. Mogensen]

I considered that but many people gave me bad reviews on it. I also wanted a glue that would dry full strength at room temp. If I do this, will it let my bow work to full potential or will it still be a little sluggish?

[Shaun]

I would use a two part glue - much stronger than TB when cured. For wood to wood I prefer Resorcinol as it is waterproof, super strong, cures with or without heat and fills small gaps, cleans up with water while still wet. A far superior product all around for this application. Good enough for Gary Davis and Dean Torges - good enough for me.

[soopernate]

I would stay away from that bowgrip stuff.  I have read stories of people who used it and only about one in ten have had marginal success.  Urac is great for wood to wood or wood to boo bonding and smooth on is great all the way around

[K. Mogensen]

I would like to use TB because that's what I have.

Someone told me to not wrap the bow with shrink wrap and just wrap it with the rubberband. Would this let it air dry if I didn't overlap the band?

[bigcountry]

I have glued up a few bows with inner tubes.  It dried just fine.  I took it off the form and took the tubes off after 48 hours.  It seemed dry.  Bow still shoots.  If it was me, I would not wrap ever inch of the bow with inner tubes.  When I wrap up the bow, I left 1-2" gaps.

[K. Mogensen]

I think I'll do that. I'll put the glue on the lams, leave the shrink wrap off, and wrap it with the clamp and leave 1" gaps in between all of them.

[K. Mogensen]

To clear up any questions, here's the clamp...

  http://216.119.68.89/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_13&products_id=83&zenid=00651432124f8c3f796732de34c1887b

I will not overlap like in the picture. I'll leave 1" gaps.