Too much deflex?

[Apex Predator]

I'm wanting to try the hinge for take downs.  It's been said, and repeated, that they work great if your design doesn't have much deflex.  How much deflex is too much?  Is there a specification that you guys can quote?  I found an alternative source for hinges and they are only $45 each.  I'll have to buy my own screws.  Anyone have an exact size for the screw?  Is this too much deflex?

 

[fixer]

I have never used the hinge. But your question brings one to mind, why would deflex have any thing to do with it if the mounting surface is as required and the material it is being screwed to is strong enough? I thought I have seen it used on some recurves but maybe my mind is failing me. When some one answers your question maybe it will answer mine.  :confused:

[Apex Predator]

I think the hinge can only pivot so far without binding, or that's what I reckon anyways.

[Dmaxshawn]

I dont have an answer for you on this one.  But why not the bow bolt system.  I know there 95.00 usd and thats whats keeping me from trying one as well. Why not the sleeve from 3rivers there a bunch cheaper?

Shawn

[2treks]

Apex, I think it has to do with the curv of the riser, How much of a flat spot you have.
   It looks like you should be fine but I would think that you could mortis out a "flat Spot" if you needed to. Just my thoughts.
Chuck

[Apex Predator]

I got it from another buddy, that my design should be fine for the hinge.  He uses it on recurves with more deflex in the riser than mine.  The sleeve is great but is more work and limits the handle design too much.  I've also considered the fiberglass sleeve, which I plan to try as well.  The bow bolt looks like more work as well, and I ain't no machinist!

[AkDan]

apex, there is a post on the sleeve and how to get an indexed grip using it.....  Guy mentioned using auto bondo on the sleeve to get the grip shape you wont.  Sounds like a helluva idear.  

I did screw a hinge up...bow came unstrung, (loops were too big for the string grooves ugg),   I honestly dont care to much for it, but it's the lesser of two evils, really there is no good 2 piece td system out there to date. My current hinge the ears if you will aren't right.  They look almost like the last one that came unstrung and not flat like a new hinge.   Kind of frustrating to say the least!   I guess if nothing else replacing one shouldnt be the end of the world if the screws themselves are removable and not epoxied in.....

[Steelhead]

Marty I read that titanium screws are the way to go on the connexion hinge.I am not sure what size.It is important to use the right size from what I have read.Some guys used to small of screws and had problems

Jim Neaves does a very good job on the connexion hinge.Its recessed.If you can find a picture or 2 of his TD its worth a look for sure.no one does it better IMO

The Wes Wallace longbow and Fox breed recurve use the brass and steel sleeve.I had a 2 PC. breed and it had a nicely contoured grip that was very comfortable.Locator style pretty much.The Wallace is also nicely shaped.Probably bondo as mentioned?These do add some mass weight right where the hand sits.I have no objection to that.

I do like the socket style ones and have had 2.One by Big Jim and one by Widow.

Keep up the nice work on your bows.They look terrific.i will have to try one someday.

cheers

[Apex Predator]

Thanks folks!  From another source I have found the screws to be Supertitanium #10 1 1/4" long.  Now to find a source.  Google gets lots of hits, but I haven't been able to find them yet.

The source for these hinges builds them for Monarch Bows, but I haven't been able to reach the bowyer.

[AKmud]

Maybe you could shim the joint with a thin shim to take out a bit of the deflex?

[Apex Predator]

Ron Richter, the bowyer for Monarch Bows, and I had a good discussion.  He gave a good review of the hinges.  They are cast, instead of machined like the ones Dick Robertson sells.  He gave me a few ideas to try for screws, but none sounded as good as the proper supertitanium #10s.

[John Sturtevant]

I'm guessing your using the latches from PA.  These are cast, have used a number of them with good results.
Hard to tell from the pic, but it does not look like you have much deflex in the handle and should be OK.   If it doesn't lay flat I've added an overlay then ground it flat.
I've used wood screws and machine screws with threaded inserts.  Much prefer the machine screws with inserts, but have had no failures with either.
We work with a large fastener supply house at work and their tech people advised that the grade 8 socket head machine screws (flat head) were much stronger then any stainless or titanium screws available.  Titanium has an excellant weight to strength ratio but is not as tuff as the grade 8 bolts....at least that's what they advised.  
Never heard of supertitanum though...so who knows.

[Apex Predator]

Yes John, these are the cast ones made by Bill Semerod.  The machine screw/insert just seems like so much added work.  What kind of wood screws do you recommend?

Thanks for the info!

[Tom I.]

Marty,
Here's a link to Dick Wightman's build-along on making two piece bows using the hinge...it may help you:
 http://oldpharttsarchery.com/bowbuilding/connexionhinge/thehinge.html

Tom I.

[John Sturtevant]

The machine screws are not much more work to use...but you do need a handle wrap to cover the holes.  
The only screws I've used were the stainless ones. They worked fine for me but others have had troubles with them.   I won't use them again for that reason.  
I do believe it's important that they fill the hole in the hinge and that everything is bedded in epoxy so there can't be any movement.

I would prefer to use screws...much cleaner appearance so if you find the "supertitanium" and if they have a higher strength rating I'd appreciate hearing about it.

I've still got a couple of Bills hinges left that I'll install on something sometime.   Great product and price.

[Holm-Made]

My thought is the same as John's.  Add extra overlays on the back of the riser, then grind a flat spot big enough for the hinge.  If done right it would look quite striking.  chad