tiller check please.

[razorsharptokill]

This is the 7 year old stave. It still has prop twist and I left the s shape because of where the sting laid.

I don't have string for it yet. This is para cord on it now.

[razorsharptokill]

Damn, I know what happened. I used my wifes camera.

Photobucket usually resizes them when I add them to my folders. I'll try again tonight. Sorry.

[razorsharptokill]

 

[Pat B]

The left limb looks good. The right limb looks stiff from mid limb out. How does the string track?

[razorsharptokill]

It's a beast. It has an S curve but the string will put the arrow right on the outside of the handle with the notty limb as the top one. It also has some prop twist still. Should I try to get any of that out before I go any further?

[razorsharptokill]

I noticed that the bow is reversed in those pics too by the way.

[Pat B]

Did the stave have prop twist or has it developed since you started tillering?  Feel the thickness along each limb edge and see if they are the same. I use my thumb and first two fingers to check thickness. It is more accurate than trying to see it. Actually if you close your eyes while feeling it really helps.
  Wood bows will shoot fine with some twist, unlike glass bows. If the twist was there from the start you can either heat it out or leave it be. If it was induced by uneven thickness thin down the thicker side or area and the twist will disappear.

[walkabout]

looks good, hopefully you can get it finished and flingin arrows. I had a red oak bow prop twist on me during tillering awhile ago, tryed everything to get it out but to no avail.long story short that ended up being used as pieces for other projects,lol. to this day i still look at my first red oak bow and wonder how the heck i pulled it off, building these bows can make you feel like christmas any day of the week.

[razorsharptokill]

It had really bad twist to begin with and I took a lot of it out. There is some thickness difference due to the knot on the side. I wanted to leave some wood around that.

[razorsharptokill]

This bow came in under weight too. I don't understand how it could with this much wood in the limbs.I piked it to 64" NTN. It was 68".
Now it is 40 @24". I think I can salvage this bow.
So should I settle for 40 lbs but try to get it bend to 28"? The tips are still an inch wide.

[b.glass]

What wood are you working with here. And what is the limb width? I'm assuming it is osage, it looks like it anyway. It should handle being drawn to 28". Don't you think Pat?

[razorsharptokill]

It is Osage. It is 1.5" at mid limb. So maybe start geting thge tool marks off, sand it and shoot it at a short draw(24") for 50 or so shots and put it back on the tiller tree to see how it looks?

I still have some thickness right after the fades. How far out should the limb start bending? I might get a little more of the limb working if I take some of that off.

[razorsharptokill]

TTT

[Pat B]

The fade area is the transition between the rigid handle and the working limb so the limb should start bending somewhere in the fade area.

[walkabout]

doesnt hurt to have the fade bending a bit as long as it doesnt end up bending too much. wouldnt hurt to just excercise the limbs to a short draw length too then see how it looks after that,but i dont know if that would be the same as short drawing and shooting it.taking some width off the tips might let it bend a lil more too. 40#@ 24 isnt too bad,and so long as you dont see anything catastrophic happening you may be able to inch it along to 28. just work lil areas at a time and work out the stiff spots you might only see by holding a straight short block under it

[razorsharptokill]

The only problem is that one limb is full of character. It seems to bend pretty good throughout now. Shot it a bit today. Shooting ok but a bit sluggish.

[walkabout]

if nothing else at least you got the experience out of it and the knowledge that it shoots,lol. much better than it breaking halfway through.