Tiller advice, updated, new pics

[scrub-buster]

Could someone lend an expert eye to check my tiller so far.  This is an osage backed with sinew, 60" long.  The left limb (lower) is shorter by about 1 1/2".  I am using Dean Torges' design.  It is at zero brace height.  The string is tight, but lays against the belly when strung.  Thanks for the help.

 

[Pat B]

You need to go to a low brace height on a short string now! The long string won't give you an accurate reading. Don't pull it any farther on the long string.

[scrub-buster]

Thanks Pat.  I should have some time to work on it tomorrow.  I'll put a shorter string on it and see what it looks like.

[Shaun]

Yes, once you can pull the long string to the point of brace (imagine a string between the tips in your picture above) then it is time to put a regular string on it. Tiller and string tracking show up differently once on short string.

[George Tsoukalas]

I long string tiller out to 10 inches of string movement. Looking for a good tiller and target weight + 5#. That puts me at around 10 # over target weight> more on my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[scrub-buster]

I got it to a brace height of 5"  This style with the one limb shorter is hard for me to judge.  The shorter limb is on the left.  Any advice would be great.  In the last picture, I am doing my best Jawge impression    

 

 

 

[dutchwarbow]

the lower limb, being 1 1/2" shorter, bends as much as the longer upper limb, whereas the longer one should bend slightly more.

if you still have some material to remove, do it from the upper limb. In addition, I think it's worthy chopping the upper limb down by 1/2"-1".

+1 1/2" is quite alot.

Nick

[George Tsoukalas]

Scrub, mark some heavy pencil lines at the end of the fades and make sure the bow is starting to bend there. I think it probably is beginning to bend a few inches beyond. The tiller would look better if you got the whole limb moving. Jawge

[Pat B]

The main reason I started making symmetrical limbs is because I can see tiller easier. Both style bows shoot well so do what works best for you.
 With an asymmetrical bow and an unfinished handle area you can decide which limb will be on top later in the process. Once you set out a symmetrical bow the top limb is determined early in the process and is difficult to change later.

[Pat B]

"Once you set out a symmetrical bow the top limb is determined early in the process and is difficult to change later."         I meant to say...once you set out an asymmetrical bow...

[Art B]

An 1 1/2" shorter lower limb is designed to be used with a lighter grip or straighter wrist. You are in effect applying greater heel pressure to your handle making the lower limb even shorter.

You can tiller your bow out like this, but throws "equal" limb mass off. ART