Where to put the arrow pass?

[Hawken1911]

Hello,

My dad just made me an ash English longbow from a purchased floor-tillered stave.  He did a beautiful job of tillering it to 50#@28" and he finished it, but neither of us know technically where the grip area and/or arrow pass should be.  Both limbs are tillered equally from the very center.  Is there any rule of thumb, or is it simply a matter of trial and error to find the 'sweet spot'?  I plan on adding a ferret-style floppy rest and leather handle wrap once I figure out where they should be on the bow.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul

[huntersteve]

I usually measure up 1" to 1 1/4" from the center of the bow....Steve

[Art B]

Arrow pass placement really depends on how you intend to grip your bow IMO. I use that 1-1 1/4" measurement that Steve mentioned for a light grip/straighter wrist. An 1 1/2" arrow pass placement for a medium grip. Full hand/low wrist I use a 2" placement. ART B

[Hawken1911]

Great!  Thanks guys.

[ranger 3]

What if you have one limb 1 1/2in longer than the other

[Art B]

"What if you have one limb 1 1/2in longer than the other"

I'm assuming that longer limb is the upper, right?

That places your arrow pass 1 1/4" above the bow's center and requires a medium to light grip IMO. ART B

[Stagmitis]

"Full hand/low wrist I use a 2" placement."

Art,

I have heard of this before and wonder why you do it this way. What are the limb lenghts relative to center with this application?

Thanks !

[ranger 3]

Thanks Art

[Art B]

Limbs would be same length with handle centered Stagmitis. Using a 2" arrow placement with a full hand/low wrist balances even strain to both limbs (as would an 1 1/2" arrow placement for a medium grip, or a straight wrist for a 1" placement). A greater positive is required to achieve even limb strain at full draw because of the added hand/heel pressure.

Not everybody grips there bow the same way and thus requires different arrow passes using the appropriate hand hold. It really all comes down  to even limb strain at full draw, while gripping the bow the way it was designed, or designing a bow for the way you grip it, so as to maintain good long term tiller health (for wood bows).

[Stagmitis]

Art said:

"Not everybody grips there bow the same way and thus requires different arrow passes using the appropriate hand hold. It really all comes down to even limb strain at full draw, while gripping the bow the way it was designed, or designing a bow for the way you grip it, so as to maintain good long term tiller health (for wood bows).

Couldnt agree with you more!

And:

"Using a 2" arrow placement with a full hand/low wrist balances even strain to both limbs (as would an 1 1/2" arrow placement for a medium grip, or a straight wrist for a 1" placement)"

Are you assuming that the pressure into the grip is 2" above and 2" below centerline thus balancing the bend of the limbs?

[Art B]

"Are you assuming that the pressure into the grip is 2" above and 2" below centerline thus balancing the bend of the limbs?"

In theory yes, but in practical applicaton probably not. Because the drawing hand is above the bow hand (split fingers) you get a bracing effect on the lower part of the handle as you draw the bow. So less hand contact may be needed here, but because of that bracing effect, both limbs feel equal strain. So perhaps it'll take 1" below and 2" above centerline to balance both limbs. Who really knows. One thing for certain though when it comes to wood bows, if you don't evenly strain both limbs, time is not on your side. Of course, just my opinion here now. ART